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Thread: How to use electrolysis on the doors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Dayton Ohio
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    Default How to use electrolysis on the rusty doors

    Just finished the electrolysis project on my doors. This is an awesome way of removing rust and to seal and protect the doors. I have uploaded a pdf file to my site. By following this link at the bottom of the photos you can download the file





    http://kibokojoe.webs.com/Door%20ele...is%20setup.pdf
    Last edited by Kibokojoe; 08-16-2010 at 08:33 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Minneapolis, MN
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    Default

    Wow. That looks incredibly involved. Don't think I'd have the patience for it, but excellent work!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Default

    very nice, Joe!
    If you want, it can be loaded onto my website, I can ask my buddy to add it to his server, he manages my site.
    You can send it directly by email to the email address shown on the main page of my website below to 'hairywithit'

  4. #4
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    Default

    Most of the work is getting the door down to clean it. Or I guess you could buy a new door . First door was the hardest, second door I had the door apart and in the tank in less than an hour. Most of the time was spent waiting for the door to cook.

    You want to talk about incredibly involved try taking a 4HP22 valve body apart and cleaning it. I am doing this on my sons car right now and man there are a lot of parts. Spent 4 hours Saturday disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the VB. This is only one side of four



  5. #5
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    Japan
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    o.k., then send it to my email address, see PM box for details.

    But the valve body work makes fun, pretty easy actually, except scraping off the old main gasket.

  6. #6
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    Ha yeah as long as you don't drop a spring, ball or piston. Kind of nerve racking making sure everything goes back the way it came out. Sure would hate to pay 6 bills to have it rebuilt.
    Last edited by Kibokojoe; 06-22-2010 at 09:06 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Honolulu
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    I do something like this for old rifle barrels to remove the copper/lead fouling


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  8. #8
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    Default It was close

    Finished reassembling the VB tonight. Luckily for me when I removed the large plate to replace the gasket all of the cups and balls stayed in place. The drawings in the manual did not show the proper placement of these little jewels. The vasoline trick worked wonderfully and all of the parts stayed in place until I finished the assembly. Question do all the bolts on the VB torqued to 71 in/lbs? What is the torque on the bolts that mount the VB to the tranny aren't those like 94 in/lbs? The gasket is placed dry correct? It took a while to carefully remove the old one. A sharp razor blade did the trick.

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    o.k., then send it to my email address, see PM box for details.

    But the valve body work makes fun, pretty easy actually, except scraping off the old main gasket.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kibokojoe View Post
    so electrolysis works on lead and copper too?
    Yup, just uses peroxide or ammonia as the electrolite.

    Basically, you are reverse plating the bore...pulling the copper and lead off the bore and on to a cathode rod running the length of the barrel
    Last edited by Blitzkrieg Bob; 06-22-2010 at 07:55 PM.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kibokojoe View Post
    Finished reassembling the VB tonight. Question do all the bolts on the VB torqued to 71 in/lbs? What is the torque on the bolts that mount the VB to the tranny aren't those like 94 in/lbs? The gasket is placed dry correct? It took a while to carefully remove the old one. A sharp razor blade did the trick.
    is that not mentioned in the info I sent you? Do not have access to it at the moment.
    Or do a search for BMW tightening torques, there is a +130 pages document on the internet available

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