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Thread: I have to be the worst mechanic in the world!!!! ARRRGGGGG

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
    657

    Default I have to be the worst mechanic in the world!!!! ARRRGGGGG

    So I decided to change the diff fluid tonight...got the fill plug open with ease but the drain plug was IMPOSSIBLE...I tried it all (beside a breaker bar b/c it could fit)

    so I gave up and moved onto the rear sway bars...took them off with ease but now I can not put them back on...I am off to autozone to get a LARGE C-clamp hoping they have one...

    please let me know what to do b/c I have a feeling I am going to be up all night working on this bastard! =(

    p.s. tried A LOT of WD40...no workie! =(

    HELP!
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3314&dateline=1239168  877

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    454

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BMW4LIFE View Post
    So I decided to change the diff fluid tonight...got the fill plug open with ease but the drain plug was IMPOSSIBLE...I tried it all (beside a breaker bar b/c it could fit)

    so I gave up and moved onto the rear sway bars...took them off with ease but now I can not put them back on...I am off to autozone to get a LARGE C-clamp hoping they have one...

    please let me know what to do b/c I have a feeling I am going to be up all night working on this bastard! =(

    p.s. tried A LOT of WD40...no workie! =(

    HELP!
    Well - you are clearly not the worst - just think about it - you still have fluid in that diff! Some people take the drain plug out first and then find the fill is locked. Sorry, looks like you need to work on the drain plug - soak it in powerblast (a rust aid for bolts), then try the breaker carefully - maybe try tightening first, slight wrap dead on to the drain plug with a hammer prior to doing this to help loosen the rust.

    Do you have the rear end up in the air - both wheels equal (not one on the ground?) when putting on the rear sway links?

    Have confidence - nobody is born knowing this stuff, mistakes are what give us the gray hairs - i have a few thousand.
    1995 BMW 525i w/139K miles, EAT Chip - (Gone)
    07 525i 22K, 07 328xi (41K)
    1982 Mazda RX-7 w/147K miles (Back again!)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,250

    Default

    sway bars: put a scissor jack under the rear axle support where the brake is and move the axle up or down till the bolts slide in like butter. That is just an alignment problem when the bolts do not go in easy
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...el_suspension/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    the last time i did suspension work on my car i completely destroyed a perfectly good bilstein sport shock (tore the mount) and had to have it professionally replaced. Don't feel bad!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
    657

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    sway bars: put a scissor jack under the rear axle support where the brake is and move the axle up or down till the bolts slide in like butter. That is just an alignment problem when the bolts do not go in easy
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...el_suspension/
    its not the bolts that I have an issue with...its sticking the sway bar into the link...The funny looking bended metal bar into the rubber bushing...

    arrggg....I went to autozone and the guy told me that I should try to use motor oil as it is a better lube than WD40 so I will atempt that in the next 10 min

    Scott - I have a feeling that it is rusted but my fear is that someone used a lock tie on that bad boy...it will not even budge =/ I will call my mechanic tomorrow to see if he can do it for me for $20

    in the meantime I have blasted the bastard with a gallon of WD40...I want to slap it with a hammer but I am afraid that I will mess something up even worse....

    I will be back on one hour or so to see if there are any updates on how to get those links on =/
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3314&dateline=1239168  877

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
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    Default

    Success!

    The Mobile 1 10W-40 Synthetic Motor oil did the trick...it slid on the sway bar with ease (kind of)

    all I have to say is Screw WD40!

    Thanks for all the feedback guys...

    Next up Cabin filter and then tomorrow tranny oil...wish me luck!
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3314&dateline=1239168  877

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
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    Default

    So I did the cabin filter in about an hour tonight and was in for one of the biggest surprises I have ever been working on this car...

    I don't think words can describe what these pictures will illustrate!









    I don't think this has been changed since the car was purchased...I am ashamed that I did not change it earlier...

    Time to breathe some FRESH CLEAN AIR!
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3314&dateline=1239168  877

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,250

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    if your blower motor is making noise, it may just be Mickey
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...ouse%20001.jpg

    Pic is from Shayne in Canada

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    if your blower motor is making noise, it may just be Mickey
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...ouse%20001.jpg

    Pic is from Shayne in Canada
    hahaha!!!

    A similar thing happened to one of my friends girlfriends bought a used SUV from a dealer...when she took it in for an oil change they found a dead cat in her engine bay!
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3314&dateline=1239168  877

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,036

    Default

    WD40 isn't a damn lube or a rust breaker. It's a water displacer (hence the WD in the name) and mild anti-rust coating. Meant to squirt into things that you want to get water out of. Electrical connections and such. Yes, part of the ingredients of WD40 is a very thin oil. And people mistake that oil as meaning it can be used a lube for any occasion.

    Get some PB blaster or other such rust buster to break that diff drain bolt loose. Something that's actually meant to loosen rusted parts.

    Actually the best thing I've come across is a plumbing product that you find at plumbing supply places. It's a rust buster that comes in a clear container and has an extendable snout. A couple drops of that on the rusted parts. Tap it with a hammer or other such thing to break the rust loose. And that's it. No soaking and waiting and soaking and waiting and soaking again. Takes longer to pull the little cap off the snout, pull the snout out, & reverse that process after application than it does to break the parts free.
    Cosmos Black/Black 1995 540iA M-Sport
    BMW Individual Exclusive Edition, 1 of 65 total, 9/25/95 Build

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