E34 Subframe bushing

[Scott C]

Not liking life - had to get a new sawzall to get this stupid thing out, so 100$ later, it was out (and in about 5 min with good blade).

Now the new one is in - about Three fourths of the way in. I have tried quite a few things (and it looks very straight) including using the cars weight, a threaded rod (which stripped - was poor thread) acting as a clamp to pull it together...

It looks like i will have to cut this one out and try again... Any thoughts?

Yes it was clean inside and I did not used soap or oil - will next time.

Scott

[Black 535i]

Pour a little water in from top under rear seat when seat is out to lube it. Do not use WD40, soap or anything like that as it will move around forever if you do. Try using warm water and then forcing it in with clamps or car weight.

[whiskychaser]

Pretty sure my good friend e34.535i.sport did a good write up on this. You might do a search to find the thread. Traitor bought a Jag but we are still in touch When I did them the most important things were:
1. Clean out the subframe bore ( I used a drill and a fan grinder)
2. Lubricate the subframe bore ( I used Fairy Liquid. It dries afterwards)
3. Make sure the groove is alligned correctly (dont know how you can miss it)
4. Put new bush in freezer minimum of overnight (*** fridge)
I used the weight of the car method but when mine looked like it was stopping just a tiny bit short I opened a rear door and stood on the sill.
IIRC John had to cut his new bushes out again as they got stuck too

[Scott C]

Thanks guys,
I did read the writeup - just didnt get lucky when it came time for them to go in....

They were in the freezer, but the installed one is quite warm now...

I already used WD 40 - figured it cant hurt - the thing won't budge so looks like i get to cut it up - just too disgusted to do it tonight. Of course the 1/2 bolt that I used to attempt to clamp it is stripped and stuck as well... Not my day.

Scott

[BigKriss]

p80 lube will help get the bush in or power flex bushes dont have to be pressed in.

[Scott C]

Well I got the 1/2 bolt (12 inches) out - the threads stripped and of course it didn't want to come out (the nut just spun). Jack helped it re attach to the threads. Gonna keep trying to salvage the "new" bushing before I cut that friggin thing out there!*#

Scott

[Scott C]

I Can't believe it....

Hot gun for 3 minutes (and weight of car) pushed the bushing out that was stuck 3/4 way in. Now i am back to where I started yesterday morning

Scott

[Scott C]

I Can't believe it....

Hot gun for 3 minutes (and weight of car) pushed the bushing out that was stuck 3/4 way in. Now i am back to where I started yesterday morning

Scott

And it was another case of DAS.... The symptoms of DAS are that you make mistakes when tired. (Dumb Ass Symdrome)

I missed the part about the block of wood between the subframe and the chassis when putting the bushing in! Yea, I know. So I was compressing the little dog ears (yea, I know)

I admit the errors of my ways.

1 down, 1 to go.

Scott

[Scott C]

Okay,

Subframe bushings - done! (Old ones would have been okay to leave in)
Differential output shaft seals - done! (were leaking)
Replacement halfshafts (old ones were binding) - done!
Replacement driveshaft (U Joint was bad on original, first replacement was out of balance) - done!

Vibration anyone? Definitely the driveshaft induced a 55mph shimmy. I ran it without the halfshafts and clearly there was a problem. The new driveshaft induces a slight vibration about 40mph but at 1/10th the amplitude (and I did not feel it while driving briefly tonight although I was focused on the 55mph area on my test drive).

Still more drive time needed but looking good so far.

Scott

[icesoft]

I took the whole subframe out and pressed the bushings in and out with a shop press. I was changing the gear in the differential and installing new fuel lines, so it was an ideal time to swap the bushings out as well.