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Thread: Directional tires

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    159

    Default Directional tires

    I just replaced my tires in my quest to improve upon the shimmy. Not knowing much about the tires other than brand and cost, I got more or less stuck with a set of directional tires. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with them and are they going to cause me any problems. Of course, the tire dealer said no they will be fine. But, when it comes time to do tire rotation I will be not be able to do the recommended tire rotation (ie. swapping sides), I will have to keep the right on the right and the lefts on the left.
    '94 540I A (149K miles on orig. Nik motor) & EAT enhanced

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    1,181

    Default

    the only way to truly rotate directional tires is to have them removed from the rim and swapped to the opposite side, and to the front/rear. They should not cause you any problems if you rotate from to rear only every 5k miles or so. I have mine rotated every oil change b/c i have the free rotation and balance from Discount Tire.
    1995 540iA M-Sport - 76k miles. 1 of 1 auto AW3 cars.
    1995 540i/6 - Misc Parts donor for above.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    159

    Default

    I agree. So, do you have them de-mount and remount the tires every 5K or just move them from front to rear? I can't imagine repeated de-beading of the tires is good for them, but my tire knowledge and experience is limited so I dunno.

    Oh BTW, for those of you that may be wondering, the tire replacement which also included tie rod end replacement did extremely improve the shimmy condition. However, although slight, I can still detect the shimmy. Damn!

    Things I've done: Trust Arm w/ 750 bushings, Tires, Alignment, Balancing, Tie Rod Ends, front bearings & rotors
    Other item to consider: Idler bushing, check steering nut, replace struts, control arms

    And to top things off, I have also begun to notice "the clunk" when traveling at slow speed. I can't isolate where it's coming from. So, I did a search and found over a dozen possible causes...yikes!!! Here's the list I cam up with (please feel free to add other possibilities or correct me if I have listed unnecessary items to check).
    -control arm ball joints
    -strut collar nut
    -drag link
    -spring pads
    -upper rear & front shock mounts
    -strut bearings
    -sway bar links
    -rear CV joint
    -rear tranny mounts
    -rear differential bolts
    -bolts on trailing arms
    -subframe bushings
    -drive shaft
    -center bearing
    -flex disc

    Oh, will the bleeding ever end.... At this rate I am averaging about 300 bucks a month in maintenance costs. Add the monthly loan payment and I figure that I could have bought a new car. I love my bimmer, but this is getting insane.
    '94 540I A (149K miles on orig. Nik motor) & EAT enhanced

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Colorado Foothills
    Posts
    12

    Default

    -sway bar links

    I believe this will resolve your "clunking" during low speed driving. It may also help with the vibration/shimmy. Besides these are cheap at about $28 from the stealer if necessary.

    Scott

    Best of luck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SCHUYLKILL COUNTY, PA.
    Posts
    571

    Default when i had directional tires..........

    i rotated after the first 5k, front to back, then after next 5k, side to side which requires remount but i would have them rebalanced anyway. then after 5k more front to back again. thats would have done in the past. it has worked well for me.
    tim s.

  6. #6
    Unregistered Guest

    Default

    No need to swap from side to side when you rotate on BMW. I don't know if you noticed, front tend to wear from outer edge and the rear tend to wear inner edge. There is nothing wrong with alignment, that's how BMW alignment is. One thing you should know is that by rotating the rear to front can cause tramlining effect since the inner is more worn than outer. Also, TRY NOT TO DISMOUNT A TIRE SINCE THE BEAD CAN EASILY BE DAMAGED. Have you seen how the tire tech break the bead? Especially on 17" tires or larger are prone to damage if not careful. I know a guy who works at rim repair shop in Arlington Height, IL and he told me how easy it is to damage a tire when dismount. Tire tech will remount a damaged tire back on your car and you will not know at first until something happens to the tire! Maybe they don't know if they damaged the tire since most don't check after remount. Rotating tires can prolong the life of the tires, but for me, I decided not the rotate my tires and replace when worn because on tramlining effect.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    159

    Default

    You were correct. Replaced 'em today and not only did it solve the clunk, the shimmy is gone!!! Thanks!
    '94 540I A (149K miles on orig. Nik motor) & EAT enhanced

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