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Thread: Self leveling elimination

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default Self leveling elimination

    So, I've found some money and figure I might as well spend it on something useful. Self leveling shock has been leaking for a while now, not real bad but bad enough. Wouldn't surprise me if the bombs were shot too as the ride is so hard. I'm looking for recommendations - what shocks would give me a nice smooth ride? I'd prefer to spend my money with BMA, what does the BavAuto kit offer that I couldn't get at BMA? Just how hard is this job, can an old fart working alone do it? Changing springs.. that doesn't sound fun.
    Scott
    '93 525iT 245k miles (sold, but not forgotten)
    '11 TSX Sport Wagon
    '00 328i
    '78 MGB
    '08 Saab Aero


  2. #2
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    Default

    Scott, for what it's worth, I had a *slight* leak also when I owned the M5. I took advice from the M5 yahoo board and changed the accumulators, back then they were about $85 each. It solved the leak problem and the suspension was once again the way it should be.

    It's normal for these shocks to *weep* a bit according to BMW, but they shouldn't leave puddles or spots. I just know that changing them cured the leak for my situation. Your's might be something altogether different, but it's something to consider when sizing up the job in front of you. If you do decide to change them, you might also opt for a new hose to the shock. Mine came off the shock ok, but it was a bear to remove from the accumulator. Probably the absence of a thread lubricant and different metals.

    Hope this helps,
    JR

  3. #3
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    Keep the LAD, it is really easy to repair LAD shocks, see my website below.
    The O-rings you can get from any hydraulic shop or online shop for seals, and they are the ones which leak most. Bottom part.
    For the top seal, I have a "set" now = actually only 2 parts, that is one seal in special dimension and an O-ring for that.

  4. #4
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    Default

    The accumulators are $150/ea. at BMA now. They probably are shot as the ride is very hard. The leaking shock has left puddles intermittently. But the wheel well shows quite a bit of oil hitting it. I'll take a look (again) at your write up Shogun, but commiting to repairing them means buying the bombs, removing and repairing both shocks (why do just one), and putting it back together. Kind of a long process for a car I need to drive. And would it really improve the ride which is my main concern?
    Scott
    '93 525iT 245k miles (sold, but not forgotten)
    '11 TSX Sport Wagon
    '00 328i
    '78 MGB
    '08 Saab Aero


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    1,087

    Default

    I rebuilt my accumulators and all has been fine for a long while. I now have a small drip coming from the proportioning valve. Can one rebuild that or does it have to be replaced?

    sorry to hijack your thread.

    I would recommend rebuilding your LAD, especially for the touring because you actually put heavy items in the trunk on a regular basis.

    ~6 speed~ Rear Fogs ~ Shadowline ~ Tow Package ~ OEMMM///S38B38

  6. #6
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    Default

    proportioning valve leaking? never heard of that. what is leaking there is one of the warning switch, easy to replace.
    Brake Pressure Warning Switch; DS Regulator Sensor; Coarse Thread 1.5 Bar
    vertically mounted
    or
    Brake Pressure Warning Switch; Fine Thread; 20 Bar
    Mounts horizontally on side of DS regulator.
    Or do you mean the regulating valve? yes, that we had apart already and fixed some of them. Bryan also has some pics of that. There are no spare sets available, but not many gaskets/o-rings inside, pretty easy, just remember where the small balls are and which size goes where and how the lever was attached.
    http://www.bryanborough.com/750iL/
    Last edited by shogun; 08-04-2009 at 09:17 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default

    I will take a pic and post it later today so you can see what I am seeing. I also get a check suspension levelling warning even though the EDC works fine and there are no leaks at the shocks.

    So you think it's another sensor that's leaking and the drips are collecting at the valve?

    ~6 speed~ Rear Fogs ~ Shadowline ~ Tow Package ~ OEMMM///S38B38

  8. #8
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    Default

    Erich,
    So you think that replacing the o-rings is enough? Are you saying you have a special seal set for the top seal? Mine is leaking at the top. How difficult is the disassembly, does the shock just screw apart like it looks? Looks like a lot of pieces in your pictures, and there is not any text.

    If I'm correct, then the leak is from bad seals which can be repaired. And the hard, stiff ride is from bad accumulators? I'll have to check the bentley manual, how hard is it to remove the accumulators and shocks - see if they are under any hydraulic pressure.

    I have only once put enough weight in this thing to make the LAD pump it up, so I don't really need that functionality. But I would rather repair the system, if it's possible for me to do it myself and it will result in a good ride. Sure wish I had a lift....
    Scott
    '93 525iT 245k miles (sold, but not forgotten)
    '11 TSX Sport Wagon
    '00 328i
    '78 MGB
    '08 Saab Aero


  9. #9
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    Japan
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    So you think that replacing the o-rings is enough?
    Usually yea, see also the site of Johan & Sean, LAD shock repair, link on my website below. In case you mean the regulating valve: yes O-rings usually do the trick.

    Are you saying you have a special seal set for the top seal? Mine is leaking at the top. How difficult is the disassembly, does the shock just screw apart like it looks? Looks like a lot of pieces in your pictures, and there is not any text.
    see link to Johan & Sean on my website under lots of DIY and private DIY sites. Yes, I have some of these seals for the top only, but maybe you can find it also in a local seal shop.

    If I'm correct, then the leak is from bad seals which can be repaired.
    Yes

    And the hard, stiff ride is from bad accumulators?
    YES

    I'll have to check the bentley manual, how hard is it to remove the accumulators and shocks - see if they are under any hydraulic pressure.
    No problem at all, see Johan and Sean how to change the bombs. I made it some weeks ago to remove the shocks and add the new rubber boot outside, even did not have to add new Pentosin, because when you lift the car in the rear and engine is not running, the pressure is gone.

    Elekta:I also get a check suspension levelling warning even though the EDC works fine and there are no leaks at the shocks.
    check the wires on that switch on the rear axle, or adjust it a bit. So then it is no longer warning. Either switch is not in right position ot the wires are corroded. But there is also a trick to solder 2 pins in the CCM to kill that warning. I posted that some time earlier with a pic, pin 1 and 2 must be bridged, that is all.

  10. #10
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    that might be a possible source in USA for you
    http://www.ahpseals.com/index.php

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