Intake Manifold removal

[ScottyWM]

I'm going to be taking off the intake manifold (M50) this weekend to replace the hoses under there. Had the car 12 years and haven't had to do this yet. Looks pretty straightforward. But anyone have any tips, tricks, or cautions?

[yaofeng]

Other than the apparent nuts and bolts you can see, separate the throttle body from the plastic intake. It'll make life easier. The toughest part is loosening two 6 mm bolts (10 mm socket) between the intake support bracket and the intake itself.

[Dave M]

Other than the apparent nuts and bolts you can see, separate the throttle body from the plastic intake. It'll make life easier. The toughest part is loosening two 6 mm bolts (10 mm socket) between the intake support bracket and the intake itself.

Agreed, the only tricky part involves the silly brackets that brace the manifold from the block to up under the throttle body. Removal of the nut is easy, getting it back on the thread when re-installing blind takes a bit of patience. Don't tug / pry too hard on the fuel injector wiring rail.

Otherwise, remove some stuff, pull on the manifold, determine whats still atttached and remove it. Pull again, remove whats attached. Repeat this untill you can walk six feet from the car with the manifold.

Dave

[whiskychaser]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...24&hg=11&fg=40

As stated, the bolts (7) are a bit of a pig. Note how the brackets fit or you wont get the bolts in later. Try not to break connector 9. I unbolt the throttle body but dont disconnect the pipework or the throttle or cruise cables-just push it to one side. When it comes to the manifold nuts, magnetise the socket or put a dab of grease in it-saves you dropping them down a hole.

[BennyM]

Do you have to replace the intake gaskets every time you remove the manifold?

[Mordan]

Do you have to replace the intake gaskets every time you remove the manifold?

i wouldn't say so.. if they look good, I don't see why you must.

headgasket, you have to because oil get in between.

[ScottyWM]

Thanks guys. I did get the new intake gaskets too. Figured Murphy's Law would take hold if I didn't.

[whiskychaser]

Thanks guys. I did get the new intake gaskets too. Figured Murphy's Law would take hold if I didn't.

Smart move. The old gaskets may be hard and not seal properly. Last thing you want is to do it again cos you have an air leak. I forgot to mention I'd use a little washing up liquid on the injector seals. Makes it easier to push them home.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...206#post322206
Sorry John

[bubba966]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...24&hg=11&fg=40

As stated, the bolts (7) are a bit of a pig. Note how the brackets fit or you wont get the bolts in later. Try not to break connector 9. I unbolt the throttle body but dont disconnect the pipework or the throttle or cruise cables-just push it to one side. When it comes to the manifold nuts, magnetise the socket or put a dab of grease in it-saves you dropping them down a hole.

You might want to just go ahead and buy part #9 in that diagram and replace it when you do this. They have a habit of breaking the retaining tab off and slipping out of the intake manifold causing a vac leak that will throw MAF codes and cause the engine to run like crap or not run at all.

Should be a $6 or so part at the dealer. Those things break often enough that my dealer keeps them in stock.

Trust me. Do this now rather than have it cause a problem later. I found out the hard & expensive way about this annoying little vac line connector...

[ScottyWM]

Just to close this out, I did this project over the weekend. Removing the intake manifold took me a good while, as I was being careful and patient. Figuring out how to get the main wiring harness off took a bit, as the Bently says to just "pry it off". Turns out there are metal clips (about the diameter of a paper clip) that you can careful open and then they come right off the injectors. Had no trouble at all with the bracket bolts #7. For the connector #9, I slipped a razor knife blade in between the latch and the catch portions and then the connector pulled right out very easily with no damage. Replaced the 4-way hose and the hose from the block to the heater. Spent about $60 from BMA, the garage wanted over $500 to do this (mostly labor). Replaced the short rubber fuel lines while I was there and any other rubber line I could find. Buttoned it all back up, filled and bled the system, everything works great! Life is good.... Now if I could just convince myself to do the self-leveling elimination on the rear suspension.

But I had a thought too... why do most all hose clamps I buy absolutely suck? I wanted to tighten these good as I don't want them to leak anytime soon, and I stripped (well, they slipped) two brand new ones. Are there any good ones out there? If not, someone should come up with one!