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Thread: Replacing radiator & water pump

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    116

    Default Replacing radiator & water pump

    I just got a phone call from my local indy shop. Apparently the coolant leak in my 1989 E34 535I is a little more involved than I'd hoped. They say to replace both the radiator and the water pump. I have no reason to doubt them, but their pricing ($1100) leaves me a little sticker-shocked.

    So, I'm looking at a DIY job. In the past, I've replaced suspension (shocks + springs) and brakes, but never anything major "under the hood". Looking at the Bentley manual, it doesn't seem too involved. Drain the fluid, pop the fan off, disconnect everything and pull it out. Am I about to get myself in over my head?

    What parts need replacing along with radiator & pump? Do I need to order new gaskets or hoses?

    Thanks!

    Norman
    '89 535i, 225000 miles, family owned... Williamsburg, VA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    518

    Default

    The radiator can be found for around $200 at places like bmaparts.com and autohausaz.com. Check with radiators.com for good deals too. The pump isn't terribly expensive either. If I were you, I would at least replace the main radiator hoses as well as the small U-hose that comes off of the pump. If you don't know when the heater hoses were last done, replace those as well. I just recently did a replacement of all hoses, thermostat, and pump in about 4 hours. The pump will come with a new gasket, so there really aren't any gaskets to buy. Change your thermostat if you're opening the cooling system. Its just cheap insurance. Before replacing the radiator, order new retaining clips that hold the radiator to the front bulkhead. You will probably break the ones that are holding your old one in. If you car is automatic, replace the o-rings for the auto tranny cooler lines. When I took mine apart, I found that someone had used some A/C line o-rings in there instead of the fancy BMW teflon-coated ones. Get the correct parts and save yourself the headache. Overall, the cooling system on the M30 isn't terribly hard to service, but you might need some patience with bleeding it. There are quite a few threads on this forum regarding the bleeding procedures and with experience you can cut down the time required quite a bit. Good luck and keep that 535i running

  3. #3
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    Jan 2005
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    Williamsburg, VA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rus View Post
    The radiator can be found for around $200 at places like bmaparts.com and autohausaz.com ... Good luck and keep that 535i running
    Rus,

    Thanks for the great post, I'm leaning more and more towards working on this myself. This site has been a terrific resource over the years!

    If anyone else has any sage words of wisdom, I'm all ears,

    Thanks again,

    Norman
    '89 535i, 225000 miles, family owned... Williamsburg, VA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
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    1,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ElNormo View Post
    Rus,

    Thanks for the great post, I'm leaning more and more towards working on this myself. This site has been a terrific resource over the years!

    If anyone else has any sage words of wisdom, I'm all ears,

    Thanks again,

    Norman
    It's a PIECE OF PISS! (not sure where you're from exactly so that means - it's easy! LOL) Don't pay that kind of money for something so simple... I don't mean to be patronising in any way there because I'm no expert, it just seems like a ridiculous amount of money to pay out.

    The radiator is a straightforward job, but prob worth replacing a variety of other things too while there depending on their condition. I.e do all these together: Radiator/Water pump/Coolant+hoses/Thermostat+housing if it's plastic/and maybe fan clutch.

    This may seem a bit daunting if you've never done anything like it before, but
    it's easy if you take you're time.

    Have a look at this for the waterpum/coolant/thermo replacement: http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...pump+procedure

    If I can do it anyone can, trust me! Haha.

    Oh and you'll prob get all those parts and gaskets etc for less than half of that cost if you do it yourself, then you have peice of mind in terms of the cooling system for a long time... If you need more advice, just ask.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  5. #5
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    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    2,699

    Default

    yeah no more needs to be said. drain the block as well as the radiator and bleeding it can be a real hassle also.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    2,699

    Default

    Do you have a part number for the a/t cooler o-rings

    I had a look on realoem but didnt find anything

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...00&hg=17&fg=05

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...00&hg=17&fg=05

    Quote Originally Posted by Rus View Post
    If you car is automatic, replace the o-rings for the auto tranny cooler lines. When I took mine apart, I found that someone had used some A/C line o-rings in there instead of the fancy BMW teflon-coated ones. Get the correct parts and save yourself the headache.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Wausau, WI
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Things I learned having just done this:

    You can avoid disconnecting the AT tranny lines. Simply unfasten the transmission cooler from the front of the radiator. Get everything else disconnected, and pull the radiator back a couple inches to give yourself room. 2 top and 2 bottom screws using a #8 socket hold the tranny cooler in place. Simply detach and pull radiator away, leaving everything else connected.

    A 1 1/4" wrench works to remove the fan. A sharp crack with a hammer loosened the nut without having to immobilize the engine.

    I had recently had new coolant put in. Avoid loss of coolant from the block by pinching the upper and lower hoses before starting. I used a couple pieces of angle and a small wood clamp.

    While the thin top tab broke on my hold down brackets, they are still use-able.

    The rubber mounts will come out with the old radiator. don't forget to swap them onto the new one.

    Coolant tastes like crap.

    Look for a new plastic nut to install the level indicator sensor. Mine was taped to the inside of the packaging. The old one does not thread one correctly. It came with a new o-ring too.

    Buy one that doesn't leak. After installing mine, I'm having another next day aired because the new one leaked!
    Last edited by Washburn; 06-24-2009 at 04:14 PM.
    Pat Washburn
    Wausau, WI
    1995 525iT

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washburn View Post
    Things I learned having just done this:
    Thanks for the awesome tips. I'll keep them handy when I start on this little project.

    Interesting, I had always heard coolant was sweet. Maybe they fixed it after people were putting it on ice cream.

    Norman
    '89 535i, 225000 miles, family owned... Williamsburg, VA

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default If you have a dog

    It may be sweet but if you have a dog don't let him drink it. Unless of course you don't want him around anymore
    Quote Originally Posted by ElNormo View Post
    Thanks for the awesome tips. I'll keep them handy when I start on this little project.

    Interesting, I had always heard coolant was sweet. Maybe they fixed it after people were putting it on ice cream.

    Norman

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Washburn View Post
    Things I learned having just done this:

    You can avoid disconnecting the AT tranny lines. Simply unfasten the transmission cooler from the front of the radiator. Get everything else disconnected, and pull the radiator back a couple inches to give yourself room. 2 top and 2 bottom screws using a #8 socket hold the tranny cooler in place. Simply detach and pull radiator away, leaving everything else connected.
    The OP has a 535i. Those radiators have the A/T cooler built into the radiator itself. Different setup from a 525i. Just FYI

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