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Thread: What to Replace with Head

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bethesda, MD
    Posts
    385

    Default What to Replace with Head

    So, since two of my exhaust manifold studs are broken off in the head and I happen to have a recently rebuilt head from a crashed car sitting in my garage, I've decided I'm going to swap the heads. What I've already ordered is the full HG set (comes with all the top end gaskets) and 14 head bolts. Should I also replace the Timing Chain at this point or the guide? Or anything else? Is that significantly more work? I think I might take this opportunity to replace the water pump as well because for all I know it could very well be original. Lastly, any tips on putting the head in would be greatly appreciated including the best way to clear all the oil and whatnot from the holes for the head bolts.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
    Posts
    3,078

    Default

    Given the mileage and the work you are doing already, I'd certainly think about doing the chains and guides. To dry the bolt holes I push the corner of a rag into the holes with a screwdriver. Just keep at it till you stop seeing light relecting back from the bottom of the hole. To clean the threads cut a groove at 90 degrees to the thread on an old bolt and work it in the bolt hole. The groove will pick up all the crap. Putting the head on is probably a 2 man job. I'd put a couple of thin battons across the top of the gasket and lower the head onto them. That way you dont catch an open valve on the block and you can wiggle the head about to line it up with the dowels. When you are happy its lined up just lift each end and remove the batons. Imagine you oil the new bolts on the M30 too? I prefer to use machine oil. I just put a little 'run' down each thread then leave them for a while. The worst runs off and you end up with just a film-you dont want oil under your new bolts HTH

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
    Posts
    4,243

    Default

    New t-chain guides are recommended here. You will need to deal with the front cover and the mightily attatched (300 ft.lbs.) crank bolt though.
    After dabbing the oil form the bolt holes I use a brake cleaner and a rifle cleaning brush. With dry holes then use "bolt prep" with a drop of oil on the underside of the bolt's head to prevent it from galling. Allow the bolts to rest between tightening stages.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    check yer rocker arms,mine had started to wear the hardening off
    Gone but not forgotten

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bethesda, MD
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Head was fairly recently rebuilt (<10k miles) so rocker arms should be good. Camshaft looks (and almost is) new. I'll definitely give everything a once over though, but my main concern is cleaning up the 180k mile block.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bethesda, MD
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Head is installed and all is working properly, really feels like a whole new car. The transmission now shifts smoothly, the car is much quieter, and has far more power.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    good work,my experience was the same,although i thought car was running ok fuel consumption was up(according to obc).After new head gasket etccar is much smoother and fuel consumption has dropped to (albeit pretty abysmal) normal reading
    Gone but not forgotten

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