changed the transmission fluid in the 540.

[dt8068]

I posted this in the bimmerforums e34 section also...


A month ago my transmission started flashing TRANS PROGRAM at me every now and then, and I would just turn off the car, start it again and be good to go. Recently it had gotten worse, and started making a whining noise before it warmed up, especially at the shift points and the trans program would come on after a few miles of driving. Then it got to the point where it would bang into reverse and drive.

I was sick of only one gear, so I decided to change the fluid and filter yesterday with Valvoline Max Life (which claims to be La2634 compatible), and a Filtran filter. It was such a pain in the ass because I didn't have access to lift (jacked it up on 4 jackstands), and the damn hand pump that I used decided to break halfway through filling... After running to advance auto to get a new pump, I was able to pump back in about 8 quarts of fluid after draining the trans. The old fluid was really dark and the old filter was dated February 1993 and oddly enough, it wasn't even a Filtran filter and it was slightly collapsed. I couldn't believe the fluid was still void of any sludge or particles after 212,000 miles, and it was damn clean inside the transmission. To fill the trans I pumped in fluid until it gushed out, then started the car, turned on the lights and a/c, let it warm up a bit, then pumped in more fluid (it took A LOT more) until it gushed out again. Then I started running it through P/N/R/D and pumped in even more fluid till it gushed out then plugged it back up. WHAT A FRICKIN MESS this was. I was absolutely covered in trans fluid after finishing the whole job; I want to know why the hell anyone would think its an awesome idea to put the fricking FILL plug at the lowest point on the transmission. GREAT IDEA. Also, why on earth use a 17mm hex? Seriously, what is the advantage to that besides making it hard for the DIY'er so that we would be forced to have it serviced at a shop? Why not use a conventional 17mm bolt plug?

Well luckily the fluid/filter change stopped the whining and the trans program is now gone . And to my amazement the transmission now shifts very smoothly; the only shift you slightly feel is 3rd to 4th, and it goes from reverse to drive very smoothly. Hopefully the trans doesn't decide to self destruct in a few hundred miles because of the fact I didn't use the shell fluid. I will report back in a few thousand miles to let you guys know how its running...

[whiskychaser]

I started running it through P/N/R/D and pumped in even more fluid till it gushed out then plugged it back up. WHAT A FRICKIN MESS this was. I was absolutely covered in trans fluid after finishing the whole job; I want to know why the hell anyone would think its an awesome idea to put the fricking FILL plug at the lowest point on the transmission. GREAT IDEA. Also, why on earth use a 17mm hex? Seriously, what is the advantage to that besides making it hard for the DIY'er so that we would be forced to have it serviced at a shop? Why not use a conventional 17mm bolt plug?
...

Yes its messy. Yes putting a fill plug at the bottom of the sump is stupid. Yes 17mm is a daft size. Yes the whole filling procedure is a PITA. I think all members with autos should design a new sump and dipstick combo and get somebody to make them. How hard can it be? Worth it to avoid all this nonesense?

[russiankid]

I don't think thing it would be hard to weld on a dip stick. However, getting the proper length of the dipstick itself would need to be dead on accurate so you get an accurate reading.

[h2oyo]

Yes its messy. Yes putting a fill plug at the bottom of the sump is stupid. Yes 17mm is a daft size. Yes the whole filling procedure is a PITA. I think all members with autos should design a new sump and dipstick combo and get somebody to make them. How hard can it be? Worth it to avoid all this nonesense?

My answer to the auto issues on my 95 540i was a 5 speed. Now to find a 6 speed that I can afford

[charlie]

I have done this on mine and it is a PITA. the only reason I can think is these krauts don't want anyone fiddling with the transmission and discourage all but the hardcore DIY'ers from doing their own tranny service

[dt8068]

UPDATE:

Bad news bears... the TRANS PROGRAM started coming back. Here's the circumstances: The transmission still shifts extremely smooth while driving and while going from Reverse to Drive and vice versa; and the whining that it did before I changed the fluid is still non-existent. The Trans Program message comes up after about 20 minutes of driving, and until then the car shifts perfectly. I think limp mode is engaging once the trans fully warms up; when cold it will not go into limp mode. Once the Trans Program comes on the shift from drive to reverse, and reverse to drive is pretty rough, but this is only after its in limp mode (the shift between D and R will be perfectly smooth right up until TRANS PROGRAM appears, then it all goes to hell). In limp mode if i go from drive-neutral-drive or reverse-neutral-reverse, the shift is perfectly smooth. It is only rough when switching back and forth from R and D. what does this mean?

Since the transmission works flawlessly until the instant it goes into limp mode, it makes me believe there is no mechanical issue and something else might be going on. I don't believe its a valve body problem either because it doesn't have that held back hesitation feeling when accelerating from a stop, which is typical of the "reverse and drive at the same time" thing that usually occurs when these 5hp30s die. The car still accelerates hard right off the line.


So, what could the problem be? I'm stuck at this point and I can't think of what to try. When the trans program comes on I can turn off the car for like 30 seconds then restart and the message will be gone. Is there anyway to read the transmission codes, kinda like the stomp test?

[whiskychaser]

UPDATE:
So, what could the problem be? I'm stuck at this point and I can't think of what to try. When the trans program comes on I can turn off the car for like 30 seconds then restart and the message will be gone. Is there anyway to read the transmission codes, kinda like the stomp test?

Getting the codes read is definitely the best place to start. The tranny has its own ECU where it stores them and you will need a code reader like Carsoft or get some garage to do it for you. This will give you an idea of what the codes are: http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf

[Tiger]

I think you need to have your valve body rebuilt... early trans like ours does have electrical problem that is solved by chanigng out the wire harness attached to the valve body selenoids.

I think one or more of your selenoid is failng therefore starving your transmission of fluid. It is much easier to rebuild the whole valve body and just put it back in. I done this like 8 years ago... no problem to date.

[whiskychaser]

You can check the resistances on your tranny with a DMM at the tranny ECU end:
Output speed sensor: 325 ohms
Input speed sensor: 325 ohms
Temp sensor:
820 ohms at 0 deg C, 962 ohms at 20 deg C, 1118 ohms at 40 deg C, 1289 ohms at 60 deg C
EDS (Pressure regs x 5) No.1= 5.9 ohms Nos 2-5= 6.4 ohms
MV (Magnetic valves x 3) 28 ohms

I've had an input sensor go out with the symptoms you describe. If the code check comes up with 'Turbocharger speed sensor' (which it may if you go to BMW), it really means turbine sensor which is the input one

[dt8068]

You can check the resistances on your tranny with a DMM at the tranny ECU end:
Output speed sensor: 325 ohms
Input speed sensor: 325 ohms
Temp sensor:
820 ohms at 0 deg C, 962 ohms at 20 deg C, 1118 ohms at 40 deg C, 1289 ohms at 60 deg C
EDS (Pressure regs x 5) No.1= 5.9 ohms Nos 2-5= 6.4 ohms
MV (Magnetic valves x 3) 28 ohms

I've had an input sensor go out with the symptoms you describe. If the code check comes up with 'Turbocharger speed sensor' (which it may if you go to BMW), it really means turbine sensor which is the input one

Awesome info! Is there a diagram of the trans ECU pin-out so I know which pins each of these sensors/valves are at the ECU harness? Also did you take these readings with the ECU out and the car off (obviously after the trans was at the appropriate temperature)?