1995 BMW Handling Problems-what to do?

[Russell]

1995 BMW Handling Problems
168,000 is approximate mileage. I am at a loss on what to replace/repair next. I just do not want to throw expensive parts at it. TIA

Following are my issues and what i have done to it.


Notes

• Continuous Correction needed to keep in lane..
• Drifts to the right a lot on straight roads while holding steering wheel straight.
• Continuous Correction needed in turns-not so much after car “sets up”.
• Feels a bit twitchy at higher speeds, especially with wind
• Tire pressure does not seem to make much difference
• Rear tires seems to thump/move a lot on bumpy roads
• Often looks as if driver’s side rear of car sags a little
• Tie rods and center link have not been replaced
• Rear struts and sub-frame mounts have not been replaced
• Could “rear steering” cause problems? Understand that sub frame mounts can cause this issue

Service/parts already replaced


Front Suspension/Steering

• Tightened steering column nut @ 82,578 mil
• Front sway bar links @ 92,084 miles
• Adjusted steering box @ 95, 673 miles
• Front struts replaced with Boge Automatics @105,598 miles
• Upper control arms @ 123,931 miles
• Idler arm with Lemforder part @ 136,267 miles
• Sway bar bushings @159,040 miles
• Front-end alignment by S&S Tire (Richmond Road) with Hunter 4-wheel alignment system. @ 164,362 miles

Rear Suspension

• Rear dogbones/pitman arms @ 100,576 miles
• Fill rear sub frame mounts with soft urethane (3M Windo-weld) @ 134,231 miles
• Rear sway bar links @144,299 miles
• Rear sway bar bushings @ 159,040 miles

[Jr ///M5]

Did you torque the upper control arms in the loaded position when you installed them?

[Russell]

Did you torque the upper control arms in the loaded position when you installed them?

It was my understanding they were. They were done by an independent BMW shop of 20 years experience.

[632 Regal]

• RECHECK tightened steering column nut @ 82,578 mil
• Front sway bar links @ 92,084 miles
• RECHECK Adjusted steering box @ 95, 673 miles
• Front struts replaced with Boge Automatics @105,598 miles
• Upper control arms @ 123,931 miles
• Idler arm with Lemforder part @ 136,267 miles
• Sway bar bushings @159,040 miles
• Front-end alignment by S&S Tire (Richmond Road) with Hunter 4-wheel alignment system. @ 164,362 miles

Rear Suspension

• REPLACE Rear dogbones/pitman arms @ 100,576 miles
• CHECK Fill rear sub frame mounts with soft urethane (3M Windo-weld) @ 134,231 miles
• Rear sway bar links @144,299 miles
• Rear sway bar bushings @ 159,040 miles

[/quote]

[Jeff N.]

Curious. I'd try a finding a good alignment shop and pay them for a workup.

[whiskychaser]

Could “rear steering” cause problems? Understand that sub frame mounts can cause this issue
This would be top of my list. Had the same problem with a light gust of wind, having to correct in bends etc. You would point the car and then it would decide where it wanted to go. Diagnosed it simply by rocking the car in gear-the front of the subframe went up and down!

[Russell]

Could “rear steering” cause problems? Understand that sub frame mounts can cause this issue
This would be top of my list. Had the same problem with a light gust of wind, having to correct in bends etc. You would point the car and then it would decide where it wanted to go. Diagnosed it simply by rocking the car in gear-the front of the subframe went up and down!

Could you explain rocking the car in gear? Mine is an auto. Thanks

[Russell]

Curious. I'd try a finding a good alignment shop and pay them for a workup.

Here are the specs after my latest alignment. I sat in the car with full tank of gas while he did the alignment. Tech did not indicate any problems with front end wear.

[Russell]

Thanks, Rear dogbones do not look worn?? Even so, you are saying they wear out fairly quickly. Interesting

[whiskychaser]

Could you explain rocking the car in gear? Mine is an auto. Thanks

Sorry-mine is an auto too. Put it in park with the handbrake off. You will still be able to move it backwards and forwards a bit. (I turned a rear wheel to do it. ) When you hit the 'stop' as the travel in the transmission is taken up, look for any movement in the subframe.