Alternator.

[bloodyvsunday]

EDIT,

So this is weird..
My car will die from no battery power.

Brand new battery.
Brand new alternator.
Brand new starter.


Took a voletmeter to the B+ of the alternator..
Heres my results.
When car is off.
Its about 12 volts.

But car dies because of no power.


uggggh



also ther eis a very VERY small drain..
when car off, i test the battery, every about 1 minute it will lose some sort of power.
from say..

12.40
(1 minute later)
12.39

But thats not big enough to cause this problem, and ive always had that.
Even before this issue, and with a different battery

[tim eh?]

EDIT,

So this is weird..
My car will die from no battery power.

Brand new battery.
Brand new alternator.
Brand new starter.


Took a voletmeter to the B+ of the alternator..
Heres my results.
When car is off.
Its about 12 volts.

But car dies because of no power.


uggggh



also ther eis a very VERY small drain..
when car off, i test the battery, every about 1 minute it will lose some sort of power.
from say..

12.40
(1 minute later)
12.39

But thats not big enough to cause this problem, and ive always had that.
Even before this issue, and with a different battery

you need to measure voltage with the engine running, does it die right away?

12.40 to 12.39 could also be explained by a drop in temperature, but you might have a drain.

an easy way to measure voltage is obc test #9 you have to unlock your obc first. look under 'information' at this site http://bmwe32.masscom.net/

edit- after reading your other thread.... if you are charging your battery or have just put a new one in i think the engine should run at least for a short while just off the battery no? if it's not doing that i would say you were on the right track and i would suspect something else in the ignition system like the wires maybe.

if you can narrow it down to the charging system i would check the battery and engine to ground cables.... if that's not it you are in the same boat as me and might want to look at shogun's alternator cable replacement here.

http://twrite.org/shogunnew/fixes/el...cable_between_

[bloodyvsunday]

I just tested the voltage, after charging the battery.
Cars on..
Directly from the back of the alternator B+ it was saying 12v, something..
Went back and checked the battery itself, same exact number.
of course ;]

And checked with lights on, 11v.
Checked with revving up engine, it would just drop.
thats it, drop.
not charging =/

Its a new alternator.
Like maybe the wiring between the alt/starter is wrong??

I connect b+ to the starters terminal.
The one where you connect the jumper terminal (The one under the hood)
Goes.
Put them on the same one.

Before i had it wired that the alternators wire would connect to the ground of the starter?
The terminal that links to the starter motor itself and links to the smallest (30h) on the starter.

Do i have it hooked up right?

[bloodyvsunday]

i bought a remanufactured alternator.

Right now im heading up to autozone to test the battery and alternator, be back soon

[bloodyvsunday]

i jsut had the notion to disconnect the d+ terminal, the diagnostic one.
And it ran perfectly greaat...
even plugged up my sub system.
jumps and remains at 13v.

YESS im hasppy.
so theres a short in that cirutry, ill try to figure it out, but for now at least i can run my car.


taking another look at the circutry of that wire to make sure if i need it.

[632 Regal]

Glad you got it running, do you have a bently manual?

[bloodyvsunday]

ya apparently that d+ aka the diagnostics wire was grounding out ALL the power the alternator.
funny aye?
going through all the wiring diagrams are a pain lol

but hey ill take out the wire sometime in the future.

[632 Regal]

yeah the diagram is hard to follow but it does indicate where the leads go to. i dont personally know but glad you figured it out for now.

[bloodyvsunday]

it goes simply to the diagnostic indicator or whatnot, so i should be fine, drove at least 100 miles so far and no problem.
so yea.
the abs, etc indicators still work and as the diagram goes it just goes into the diagnostics cpu so no biggie. i jus wont know when my batt is low.
so im installing a volt meter gauge.

[tim eh?]

it goes simply to the diagnostic indicator or whatnot, so i should be fine, drove at least 100 miles so far and no problem.
so yea.
the abs, etc indicators still work and as the diagram goes it just goes into the diagnostics cpu so no biggie. i jus wont know when my batt is low.
so im installing a volt meter gauge.

you have a voltmeter already on your obc.

i think the d+ wire is also connected to the charge light in the cluster board.
did the light ever come on? it could be the bulb has burned out and that could be the problem... i think...