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Thread: FPR/Fuel Injectors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Bethesda, MD
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    Default FPR/Fuel Injectors

    Two questions related to the fuel system, the first is are there any tips on changing out the fuel injectors/not spilling fuel anywhere, would anyone recommend unplugging the fuel pump relay with engine running to burn the excess fuel in the system, or is that unnecessary. I fly out Sunday and am quite busy until then, I can't stand looking at the rebuilt injectors sitting on my desk, how much time should I set aside for the job?

    Second, the vacuum hose to my FPR has basically broken and I was inadvertently running with it completely disconnected for a while. I just put in a new FPR and am waiting on the vacuum hose, it's currently electrical taped on there but... my engine ran perfectly fine with the vacuum hose disconnected. Is this normal, should I expect a better running engine when I put the new hose on?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Unplugging the fuel pump relay while the engine is running is an effective way of minimizing the fuel pressure in the system. You will spill some fuel no matter how hard you try to avoid it. When I changed my injectors, it took me about two hours. Take your time on the fuel injector electrical connectors. They may be tough to remove. I popped the cover off of the fuel injector harness housing and then removed the injector connectors. When reconnecting, having the top cover off will allow you to seat the connectors firmly on the injectors. Also, don't forget to give the area around the fuel injectors a quick blast of carb cleaner or compressed air to remove any loose debris.

    Your engine will run better when you replace the vacuum line. With that broken line, you have a vacuum leak. Check your other vacuum lines for cracks and tears too.

    HTH

  3. #3
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    Default

    With the vacuum hose off the FPR will be giving you more pressure than you really need. So your fuel consumption may improve a small amount

  4. #4
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    I'm banging my refurbed design II's in tomorrow and gonna do a step by step if you can wait... I'll prob do the write up tomorrow night sometime (although there's a link to one on here already somewhere)- I can't wait to get them in! I know I'll be depressurising the system by removing the pump fuse to avoid unecessary mess!

    I'm excited...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Albuquerque, NM
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    There will be gas leakage, just wrap a rag around whichever connection you take apart & expect more when you take the fuel rail off. If you let it sit overnight without running, most/all of the pressure will have bled off. Likewise, it will idle like heck when started when finished, It will take a little while to smooth out until all the air is purged from the system. Here's some more info:

    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_17.htm
    gale
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    I'm banging my refurbed design II's in tomorrow and gonna do a step by step if you can wait... I'll prob do the write up tomorrow night sometime (although there's a link to one on here already somewhere)- I can't wait to get them in! I know I'll be depressurising the system by removing the pump fuse to avoid unecessary mess!

    I'm excited...
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...32&hg=13&fg=15
    Watch the clips (no 5) dont ping off and drop down a grid. You might find the seals come out of the rails with the old injectors. They should push back in but if one splits and you are stuck I've got some nice new ones

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    I'm banging my refurbed design II's in tomorrow and gonna do a step by step if you can wait... I'll prob do the write up tomorrow night sometime (although there's a link to one on here already somewhere)- I can't wait to get them in! I know I'll be depressurising the system by removing the pump fuse to avoid unecessary mess!

    I'm excited...
    Those are the same ones I got, you got them off ebay as well iirc? I think I might give it a go this evening if time permits!

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...32&hg=13&fg=15
    Watch the clips (no 5) dont ping off and drop down a grid. You might find the seals come out of the rails with the old injectors. They should push back in but if one splits and you are stuck I've got some nice new ones
    Thanks for the heads up! I'll take my time and hopefully won't break anything... It'll make a change.

    Expect a call around midday for the new seals... ...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nirvana19 View Post
    Those are the same ones I got, you got them off ebay as well iirc? I think I might give it a go this evening if time permits!
    Yeah, paid the equivalent of < £60... Ha ha, if you beat me to it let me know how it goes!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default

    Whenever you replace the injectors, do yourself a favor and change those o-rings/seals as well. They should not be pushed into the rail as far as I can tell. I installed my o-rings on the injectors and then inserted them into the manifold and the fuel rail. In fact, I believe the new injectors ship with the o-rings already in place in their grooves. So, in summary, save yourself the headache and use new o-rings. No reason to do the job twice.

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