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Thread: Any tips for the sway bar bushings? I'm stuck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Default Any tips for the sway bar bushings? I'm stuck

    Hello,

    i feel like a stupid rookie. never did the job before and thought it would be easy in one hour. now I can't bring the clamp around the bushings. The clamps lock into the frame but can't go through because the bushing is too fat!!
    damn i hate this bloody sway bar. The stab links are ok. note: I did put the bushing in the correct position with the arrow pointing toward the front of the car.


    this clamp is the worst. it won't align with the screw hole


    this one looks ok. I feel like the screw will go through


    any tip?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    East Brunswick, New Jersey
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    Default

    Use a pair of wide jaw adjustable pliers to deform the bracket first. Next push the bushing into the bracket so it goes in deformed. Then bolt up.
    Last edited by yaofeng; 03-06-2009 at 01:29 PM.
    '01 540it, 6/01
    '03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
    '10 535ix. 9/09
    '10 mini 6 speed
    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Liverpool UK
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    I'd just aim to get the tip of the bolt into the thread & tighten up to bring the bracket flush... I remember it being a PITA when I took the sway bar right off & wanted to get it back on again... Keep us informed on ur progress!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  4. #4
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    Default

    I used a smaller diameter bolt. I cheated
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  5. #5
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    Seattle, WA
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    Default

    Can't say I've done this on my E34 (have done it on my truck a few times due to snapping the brackets on really nasty potholes).

    But would popping the end links off the sway bar to relieve the pressure on the bar allow the bushing brackets to be bolted back into place?
    Cosmos Black/Black 1995 540iA M-Sport
    BMW Individual Exclusive Edition, 1 of 65 total, 9/25/95 Build

  6. #6
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    Aug 2008
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    It appears as through the bushing is not properly aligned in the bracket. That would be your first issue. I remember when I had to change mine they were a bitch to get on. I think my brother ended up using some detailing spray or soap to get them to properly sit in the brackets before bolting it all in.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by russiankid View Post
    It appears as through the bushing is not properly aligned in the bracket. That would be your first issue. I remember when I had to change mine they were a bitch to get on. I think my brother ended up using some detailing spray or soap to get them to properly sit in the brackets before bolting it all in.
    yea indeed.

    I tried again this morning without success.

    However when comparing the new bushing with old one, I noticed they changed the reference, so maybe the metal clamp has changed as well. I'm going to buy 2 new metal clamps, at least with 2 new ones, the bushing won't have any excuse not to slip thoroughly into the clamp.

  8. #8
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    i have done it! I was so relieved. It took me 6 hours just for putting the new bushings!

    tip: use new metal clamps and nut
    tip: use a hammer to help align the holes for the bolt. then screw the bolt if perfect alignment is impossible to achieve, bolt the nut, hold the nut with a spanner and ratchet the bolt. it will set itself.
    tip:use crocodiles to help
    tip: those bushings are a bitch. the most annoying job i had to do yet.

    I have a question though. now do I have to bolt the links with the car jacked up and without the wheels?




    also a question. I noticed that the wheel (what's left of it) won't turn freely at all. is it normal ? I was told that when turning freely a wheel, if it growls, it means the wheel bearing is done

  9. #9
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    Good Job! Glad you got them sorted in the end, it's a pain when things don't go your way...

    If it's easier for you to do one side at a time just jack up on corner then support with a stand. You can use a second jack under the wheel to lift it up enough to align the sway link bolt with the hole... I've done this many times (Had the front end on and off more times than I'd like to remember!), with no problems at all.

    My wheels don't turn freely as such, because there is always some friction with the brake pad and from what I've read this is the way it should be. If it's really hard to turn I'd definitely look into it further though...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan View Post
    thx!

    so it doesn't matter how the stab bar is positioned? will I break something once the car is jacked down if I bolt the link as seen in the picture?

    On the picture the car is jacked up without tyres and the bar is parallel to the chassis seen in the back of the picture

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