2nd Gear drags before changing

[dreman77]

Hi all,

I have a 1991 520I with aM50 engine in it. I just purchased it and I have noticed the trans prog light come on once. I switched the car off and when I started it, the warning went away.

However I have noticed that the second gear drags before changing up. It is the only gear where this happens and it happens under slower acceleration (slightly) and hard acceleration (jerks strongly). Its like I just floored the pedal even though the pedal is the same position throughout the acceleration. I may be moving off at about 2500 rpm and then when it is in second and going to change into third, the rpm shoots up to about 4000k and then it changes gears.

I have searched through the website and have not found a similar occurrence.

I have not had the gearbox serviced yet but have it booked in for this week.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards from down under,
dreman

[whiskychaser]

Hi all,

I have a 1991 520I with aM50 engine in it. I just purchased it and I have noticed the trans prog light come on once. I switched the car off and when I started it, the warning went away.

However I have noticed that the second gear drags before changing up. It is the only gear where this happens and it happens under slower acceleration (slightly) and hard acceleration (jerks strongly). Its like I just floored the pedal even though the pedal is the same position throughout the acceleration. I may be moving off at about 2500 rpm and then when it is in second and going to change into third, the rpm shoots up to about 4000k and then it changes gears.

I have searched through the website and have not found a similar occurrence.

I have not had the gearbox serviced yet but have it booked in for this week.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards from down under,
dreman

I would think its either the clutch discs are shot or you have a problem with a solenoid valve or the wiring to it. Have the codes read as soon as you can. Meanwhile try easing off a tiny bit as it changes up. Its no solution but may help preserve the gearbox until you can get it checked over

[dreman77]

I would think its either the clutch discs are shot or you have a problem with a solenoid valve or the wiring to it. Have the codes read as soon as you can. Meanwhile try easing off a tiny bit as it changes up. Its no solution but may help preserve the gearbox until you can get it checked over

Hi whiskychaser,

thanks for replying so quickly. I am new to the world of bimmers. Which solenoid valve would you be referring to? In fact thats what I have been doing, I will normally let go of the accelerator just as it about to change into third and then accelerate normally again.

[whiskychaser]

Hi whiskychaser,

thanks for replying so quickly. I am new to the world of bimmers. Which solenoid valve would you be referring to? In fact thats what I have been doing, I will normally let go of the accelerator just as it about to change into third and then accelerate normally again.

I checked realoem and think you have the same box as me (A5S310z) but the plate is on the side of the box if you want to make sure. If its the same, my guess would be that its solenoid no.4 but there are other valves that can affect it. You can check the resistances of the solenoids and the two speed sensors with a DMM at the EGS control unit connection behind the right hand floor speaker. I have a box in my back yard that became terminal very soon after I experienced the same problem as you so dont leave it too long before getting the codes read

Edit: These links show what I'm getting at:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...er/5HP1802.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...er/5HP1801.jpg

[dreman77]

I checked realoem and think you have the same box as me (A5S310z) but the plate is on the side of the box if you want to make sure. If its the same, my guess would be that its solenoid no.4 but there are other valves that can affect it. You can check the resistances of the solenoids and the two speed sensors with a DMM at the EGS control unit connection behind the right hand floor speaker. I have a box in my back yard that became terminal very soon after I experienced the same problem as you so dont leave it too long before getting the codes read

Edit: These links show what I'm getting at:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...er/5HP1802.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...er/5HP1801.jpg

Thanks mate. That does look bad. I might just go to a transmission specialist and get it sorted out. Hopefully it wont be too expensive.

[whiskychaser]

Thanks mate. That does look bad. I might just go to a transmission specialist and get it sorted out. Hopefully it wont be too expensive.

If its the clutches then I think it will soon be like my old one- toast. But the valves etc (2.11) are on the valve body and that can be dropped without taking the box out. Fingers crossed its something simple

[Tiger]

It is usually the seals that goes bad... clutches rarely look bad unless been driven like that for a long time. Perhaps he can source a good used transmission and drop it in.

[dreman77]

It is usually the seals that goes bad... clutches rarely look bad unless been driven like that for a long time. Perhaps he can source a good used transmission and drop it in.

Brought it to a transmission specialist today and he said it was because of the clutch. Quoted me $4500 to recondition it. Thats more than what I paid for the car.

[whiskychaser]

Brought it to a transmission specialist today and he said it was because of the clutch. Quoted me $4500 to recondition it. Thats more than what I paid for the car.

A recon in the UK would cost £1K excluding fitting and you only get 12 months warranty. Thats more than mine is worth too. I've replaced mine twice with used units. The one thats in now cost £80 and its going strong. But its a lottery and you might want to consider 'going manual'. If so, there are some great write-ups on here. If you are in a gambling mood and decide to swap for another auto then I may be able give you some hints. Just one question - did the specialist give you the fault code from the tranny?

[dreman77]

A recon in the UK would cost £1K excluding fitting and you only get 12 months warranty. Thats more than mine is worth too. I've replaced mine twice with used units. The one thats in now cost £80 and its going strong. But its a lottery and you might want to consider 'going manual'. If so, there are some great write-ups on here. If you are in a gambling mood and decide to swap for another auto then I may be able give you some hints. Just one question - did the specialist give you the fault code from the tranny?

Hi,

no. he didnt give me an actual code. He just said that the transmission was slipping. i checked around and fitting a second hand unit is about 1400 with labour.