GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: Bang Bang... Is it dead? Guibo bolt missing.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default Bang Bang... Is it dead? Guibo bolt missing.

    Hey guys, travelling to pick up some new rear shocks a week or so a go and on the motorway getting up to speed in third gear and it starts grinding aq little so I put it in fourth and continued... Then there were too bangs - and it felt like something hit the underneath of the car. Oh no.

    Had a quick look and couldn't see anything wrong so continued home... Since the bangs I noticed the gear knob had a fair bit of vibration so assumed I had blown the two rear ruber mounts on the gearbox. Done a search on here and that seemed to confirm.

    I jacked it up today only to find one bolt out of the guibo is missing and another one can be moved back and forward about 1". Rubber gearbox mounts are fine. I couldn't get the best view but I think that is the extent of the damage and the car drives fine until motorway speeds when it begins to vibrate more. The guibo looked in perfect condition...

    SO... I suppose my question is really - What to do now? Can I simply make sure that all of the other bolts are tight and replace the two suspect ones and torque them up? Do I have to do anything special here? (Preloading etc?)


    The annoying thing is I had the guibo and bolts along with the gearbox mounts replaced when i had the clutch done at a BMW specialist a while back.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    953

    Default

    My wife's e36 tossed one of the quibo bolts and did the same thing. I put a new bolt in and torqued them all and after a few days of driving it smoothed out again. The quibo bolts are somewhat difficult to tighten. I think the torque spec is 95 ft-lbs (verify that). Inspect the quibo periodically to make sure it hasn't failed (cracks, frayed fabric reinforcement, loose sleeves).
    gale
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
    Posts
    3,078

    Default

    Bit weird a bolt coming undone - they should be lock nuts. I re-used mine but did put locktite on the threads. If there is no damage to the guibo I'd just stick another bolt in. Make sure you hold the bolt head while you torque the nut-torque the bolt head and you will stuff the guibo. Its bound to be different on yours, but on mine you cant get a socket on the nut as the gearbox flange is in the way. Thats where big boots come in

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    192

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gale View Post
    My wife's e36 tossed one of the quibo bolts and did the same thing. I put a new bolt in and torqued them all and after a few days of driving it smoothed out again. The quibo bolts are somewhat difficult to tighten. I think the torque spec is 95 ft-lbs (verify that). Inspect the quibo periodically to make sure it hasn't failed (cracks, frayed fabric reinforcement, loose sleeves).
    HEY DON..... How is turbo doing?
    M20 525/7 Bore: 84.50mm Stroke 81mm CR 8.5:1, blue printed/dyno & custom chip. Boost @ 6.5psi ~246hp @ 5300rpm / torque @ 269ftlbs. @ 4250rpm

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Hey thanks - that's reassuring. I was worried about other complications but all looked normal underneathe so I've ordered a few new bolts and nuts for tomorrow. I'll check the Bentley and get them in when I can. Avoiding driving it in the mean time incase I stuff the guibo...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    Bit weird a bolt coming undone - they should be lock nuts. I re-used mine but did put locktite on the threads. If there is no damage to the guibo I'd just stick another bolt in. Make sure you hold the bolt head while you torque the nut-torque the bolt head and you will stuff the guibo. Its bound to be different on yours, but on mine you cant get a socket on the nut as the gearbox flange is in the way. Thats where big boots come in
    Locktite will be added to the list I think... What colour would you say is best in this case? (I don't know much at all a bout locktite but I know there are variations?!)
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    Blue is enough.. and can be used for alot of other stuff... Red is stronger one but cannot be used for alot of things.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
    Posts
    3,078

    Default

    If you are using new bolts and self locking nuts you shouldnt really need any. But if you are, I'd go for red. Its a lot stronger than blue which is only semi-permanent. I translate that as ok for little screws and bolts you dont mind losing

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    1,853

    Default

    Guibo bolts are a pain in the arse on these cars.

    For a start, you have to get the car high enough to get a fookin massive breaker bar in under the trans tunnel... and then you have to devise a clever method of locking the back bolt on the guibo.

    When I did it for the clutch change, we used a breaker bar, impact socket and appropriately sized spanner. Fit the spanner over the back bolt, and brace it against the body work (With rag wedged between please! Dont want to chip paint off) so it cant go anywhere. Get the breaker bar on, and if the space is limited you may need two people to get the breaker bar to move properly I fortunately had help when doing this. With me on my back, and a friend ragging on the breaker bar from the side they came undone quite easily - I could imagine a lot of skinned knuckles and swearing if you try this on your own.

    If I were you, I'd back them all out and inspect, if two have gone you may find the others are on the way! If they're 'new' bolts with the guibo, I'd be highly suspicious of their steel quality - it could be a bad batch and a matter of time till you get caught out again! If you're sure they were new, I'd get a complete new set from a bmw dealer, thats the only way you're going to tell they're to spec...

    Cheers,
    Andy

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default

    I know Gale provided his best guess, but here are the torque values from Bentley for extra points



    Good luck with it,

    Dave

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Bang! then won't start
    By AndyF. in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-21-2006, 11:54 AM
  2. Thrust arm removal, why don't you bang it out?
    By BigKriss in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 03-11-2006, 08:57 PM
  3. bang from right rear
    By Torque in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 02-26-2006, 02:15 PM
  4. 95 540i - best bang for the buck
    By Loppy in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 02-01-2006, 10:22 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •