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Thread: Cold air on passenger side

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    177

    Default

    I cant help with the air questions but shogun puts in a 100,000,000,000% effort into helping this forum! Such a great help.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,199

    Default

    @Jehu
    this question I have to pass on to others, I only know the IHKA, but not the manual version.
    What might help is the site of Gunnar in Germany
    he has made a lot of instructions and also shows the different systems, he also modified to IHKA and shows the differences.
    Go thru all these pages, lots of pics
    IHKR >IHKA conversion
    72 pages, big file!
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/ihkr-ihka_umbau.pdf
    FAQ aircon
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/klima_faq.pdf
    AUC retrofit
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/auc_einbau.pdf
    parked ventilation retrofit
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/stdlft_einbau.pdf

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,059

    Default

    Ok.thanks for the info...
    Last edited by shogun; 05-24-2022 at 06:13 AM.
    1995 540i Manual build 1/95

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,463

    Default Dash is off

    Got the dash off in about 1 hour. Man what a job, it will probably take me more than a day to get it all back together. Looks like I will be able to repair the flaps without removing the IKHA but I need to know if I can get the parts. I have attached a picture of both flaps.

    The metal flap "above" has plastic button which is lying next to the flap, broken in two pieces. The rest of the broken button can be seen through the floor vent, it is an arm. So I will need to get the arm. Wonder if it is available?

    The plastic flap "above" can be JB Welded back into place which I will do tonight Any suggestions before I proceed?????


    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    On the E32 I am hundred percent sure, no need to remove the dash, just then glovebox, the center console, the metal arm behind that from chassis to center console, the radio and the OBC, and it helps to remove the front seats and the steering wheel, so you have more space to manouver. But not a absolutel must do.
    On E34 I am not sure, but should probably the same.
    Stepper motors do not have a separate fuse, all controlled by the IHKA unit.
    Make pics, Joe, and a nice short instruction how to do.
    And good Luck

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,199

    Default

    I am afraid there are no single parts available from the dealer.
    Only the housing center item # 3 complete
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3..._conditioning/
    Part number: 64 11 1 374 325 $ 236.50

    options: get the upper part from a used one
    or
    make a aluminium bracket or from plastic, where you have the possibilities.

    As a used one will probably also be brittle, I would try to make the brackets DIY.

    Make as many pics as possible, and send them to me, to the link on my website, to Hairywithit, he will include that on the site. Will be good for future help.
    And a short write up would also be good.
    And when you have the parts made, new busines for you ;-)
    many people will need them.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,463

    Default Here is the arm through passenger floor vent

    Here is a pic of the arm. Not the white arm but the black one behind it. I circled it with a yellow line. I will pull the existing and see if I can make one. Now I wish I had a mill.

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    I am afraid there are no single parts available from the dealer.
    Only the housing center item # 3 complete
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3..._conditioning/
    Part number: 64 11 1 374 325 $ 236.50

    options: get the upper part from a used one
    or
    make a aluminium bracket or from plastic, where you have the possibilities.

    As a used one will probably also be brittle, I would try to make the brackets DIY.

    Make as many pics as possible, and send them to me, to the link on my website, to Hairywithit, he will include that on the site. Will be good for future help.
    And a short write up would also be good.
    And when you have the parts made, new busines for you ;-)
    many people will need them.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,463

    Default Plastic flap glued in place

    Cleaned the shaft where the plastic flap broke off. Then spread some JB Weld along the broken edge of the flap, tried to make it a thin line just on the edge and the thickness of the plastic flap. Stayed away from the edge about 1/4" (see photo). Then I pushed the other flap closed in the other vent, this makes it easier to position the flap into place and gives it support on three of the four edges with the forth edge being the broken edge. Carefully place the broken flap into place making sure not to get glue anywhere except the break. Once the flap was in place I then smeared JBWeld along the broken seam. with a popsicle stick. Making sure not to get it too thick so it doesn't get on any other parts. That was about 2 hours ago, just went out to test it and it worked. Once it sets up over night I will apply JBWeld to the other side. I also spread JBWeld on the other flap, It has a couple of hair line cracks on it too. This is a tight area and my head was against the windshield and had to fight to get one eye into position to see down the hole Isn't the prettiest job with glue I have seen but if it works who cares


    Quote Originally Posted by Kibokojoe View Post
    Got the dash off in about 1 hour. Man what a job, it will probably take me more than a day to get it all back together. Looks like I will be able to repair the flaps without removing the IKHA but I need to know if I can get the parts. I have attached a picture of both flaps.

    The metal flap "above" has plastic button which is lying next to the flap, broken in two pieces. The rest of the broken button can be seen through the floor vent, it is an arm. So I will need to get the arm. Wonder if it is available?

    The plastic flap "above" can be JB Welded back into place which I will do tonight Any suggestions before I proceed?????

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,199

    Default

    Great, man!
    Pics will go onto shogun's site.
    If you have anything to add or more pics, just add it here, Hairywithit will make the final write up in concentrated form with pics.
    Will help a lot of people with same problem.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,463

    Default arm tomorrow

    I will work on the second flap actuator arm tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Great, man!
    Pics will go onto shogun's site.
    If you have anything to add or more pics, just add it here, Hairywithit will make the final write up in concentrated form with pics.
    Will help a lot of people with same problem.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,463

    Default My first attempt

    Here is my first attempt at the actuator arm. Need to find some 3/8" brass rod, to make the last part

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