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Thread: raditor cap

  1. #1
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    Default raditor cap

    guys, i found why im loosing coolant, my rad. cap was bad and a friend gave me a new rad. cap. and problem was gone., but my original cap has has 140 labeled in the top and my friend gave me 200, he said its psi... never knew that our rad caps has psi's labeled on them i thought they where just caps. My question is is it ok for me to use the 200psi cap that my friend gave me or should i buy the 140 ones? tnx in advance

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  2. #2
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    Default Thats 2.0 bar of pressure or 29 psi. Your car is only

    supposed to have the 1.4 bar or 20 psi cap. Buy the 140 for it before you blow the heater core seals.



    Quote Originally Posted by bmwrp8 View Post
    guys, i found why im loosing coolant, my rad. cap was bad and a friend gave me a new rad. cap. and problem was gone., but my original cap has has 140 labeled in the top and my friend gave me 200, he said its psi... never knew that our rad caps has psi's labeled on them i thought they where just caps. My question is is it ok for me to use the 200psi cap that my friend gave me or should i buy the 140 ones? tnx in advance


  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    supposed to have the 1.4 bar or 20 psi cap. Buy the 140 for it before you blow the heater core seals.
    HUH???????



    %$#*@%# .


    ... Bill if it's no trouble could you read my heater core leak thread?

    i guess i should put the 140 back in there... d'oh...

  4. #4
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    Default There was a cap recall in 1999 or therebouts , Phil

    will be familiar with it and should know the details, the early 525 used the 1.4 bar cap and most of the other 5 series used the 2.0 bar cap. The recall replacement caps were designed to vent coolant more rapidly if excess pressure built up in the cooling system. The fear was that excess pressure would occure in an overheating car and the heater core or heater core seals would blow and scalding coolant would hit the driver or passengers feet. The recall replaced all these caps with the new design. If your cap has never been replaced i think the dealer will still give you the new design cap for your car.



    Quote Originally Posted by tim eh? View Post
    HUH???????



    %$#*@%# .


    ... Bill if it's no trouble could you read my heater core leak thread?

    i guess i should put the 140 back in there... d'oh...


  5. #5
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    Default

    check here by model and built year
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

    I got a new radiator cap last year for my Highline E32 free of charge.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    supposed to have the 1.4 bar or 20 psi cap. Buy the 140 for it before you blow the heater core seals.
    i don't have a a/c heater anymore i deleted it since we don't use it here in the philippines. what i noticed with my 140 is i keep loosing coolant but with the 200 i dont anymore... aside from the heater core what else can break? or is it going to be fine?

    HID 5000k low 3000k fogs
    dynaudio seps. mc intosh amp
    ACS w/yokohama advan sport tires
    Race logic TractionControl

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    check here by model and built year
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

    I got a new radiator cap last year for my Highline E32 free of charge.
    i checked didnt find any or i might be wrong

    HID 5000k low 3000k fogs
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwrp8 View Post
    i checked didnt find any or i might be wrong
    i got this and we have the exact same car....

    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 98V178000
    Summary:
    VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. A MALFUNCTION OR FAILURE OF A COOLANT SYSTEM COMPONENT, SUCH AS A THERMOSTAT, WATER PUMP, OR FAN BELT, CAN RESULT IN SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASED COOLANT TEMPERATURE AND SYSTEM PRESSURE. IF THE INDICATIONS OF A CRITICAL OVERHEATING CONDITION IS NOT NOTICED BY THE DRIVER, IT IS POSSIBLE THAT DAMAGE TO, OR FAILURE OF, A COOLANT SYSTEM COMPONENT COULD OCCUR.
    Consequence:
    IF A CRACK WERE TO FORM OR A SEAM WERE TO SEPARATE IN THE HEATER CORE END PIECE, HOT COOLANT COULD SUDDENLY BE EXPELLED, INCREASING THE RISK OF PERSONAL INJURY TO A VEHICLE OCCUPANT.
    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW DESIGN RADIATOR CAP TO CONTROL PRESSURE AND PROVIDE GREATER COOLANT OVERFLOW IN THE EVENT OF OVERHEATING.
    Notes:
    OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN MARCH 31, 1999. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT BMW AT 1-800-831-1117. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).


    man i feel like a dork -

    last winter i overheated (water pump failed) and the cap popped off. i decided to replace the radiator cap just to be safe. so i went to a local parts store and they gave me the 200 cap. i found the recall notice and assumed the 200 cap was the replacement.... d'oh d'oh d'oh i should have asked you guys. i'm guessing i had the right cap already and it functioned as it should when i overheated. i thought the cap would be rated to pop at a certain temperature, not to regulate the whole system.

    hopefully i can ride winter out and just need to replace the o-rings around the core in the spring.

    put the 140 cap back.... no coolant on the windscreen today but it's too early to tell - thanks for the thread bmwrp8 and replies guys... massively helpful!

  9. #9
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    Default

    tnx for heads up guys. appreciate it 140 it is

    HID 5000k low 3000k fogs
    dynaudio seps. mc intosh amp
    ACS w/yokohama advan sport tires
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