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Thread: what the hell happened to my motor!?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    4,243

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    Grind the gouges on the piston smooth, slap a used head on it and drive off.
    I wouldn't worry about the lower end over this. Watch your valve lash as Regal says.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Reading, UK
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    Why didnt you pull the plugs before now, surely the state they're in would have given you a major warning about what was going on... as well as a compression test o.O

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    259

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    The plugs are only a few weeks old. I have known about this condition for a few months but university, work, weather and divine intervention got in the way.

    As far as I knew I was just burning some oil when the car started so all I did was replace the plugs once they fail.

    I did a compression test a few months back. My results were in the 180- 190. There is a thread about it here. The valve problem must be more recent.

    I'm going to try just replacing the valves.

    Anybody have any advice for how to clean out all that carbon? Is there anything that will dissolve it? I don't suppose a chisel and a hammer would be a good idea.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Oldham, England
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    3,078

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    Looks to me like you have more oil in there than a Somali pirate. My guess is min 2 valve guides are shot-seals wont do anything. Head could still be ok but I would suggest pressure test and new guides all round. As far as the bottom end is concerned, old school says get a new ring and measure the gap to see if its in spec. If not its rebore and oversize pistons and rings time. And if you have it on a bench you have got to check the big ends. If you dont fancy doing that in your back yard - and I have - then just take the lump out and put in one that works. If you calculate cost + time for each you will come to a pretty quick conclusion

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    looks To Me Like You Have More Oil In There Than A Somali Pirate.
    Gone but not forgotten

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    all that crusty crap on the plugs is oil from the pistons free wheeling in the cylinders. valve guides are toasted from hitting the pistons so those would need replacement if the heads are not cracked.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    259

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    Took the head to a machine shop today and the guy gave me a quote.

    $475 to machine and rebuild the head, replace valve guides, damaged valves, ect.

    I was hoping he could just patch it up enough to work through the rest of my time at the university and then I would deal with it then but he wont to do a patch job.

    Im going to make some phone calls and see if I can get a good head for about $300-$450..

    I already spent $400 on parts for this job, $450 more and I could have just bought an engine in the first place.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    The guy there said that the reason the valves failed is because they were getting too thin from wear. Eventually they got so thin that they could not handle the heat and failed.

    This explains why all the damage on the valves is on the same side as the spark plug.

    He also said that the rest of the exhaust valves are probably in trouble too and should be replaced.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
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    2,538

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    Quote Originally Posted by infurno View Post
    Took the head to a machine shop today and the guy gave me a quote.

    $475 to machine and rebuild the head, replace valve guides, damaged valves, ect.

    I was hoping he could just patch it up enough to work through the rest of my time at the university and then I would deal with it then but he wont to do a patch job.

    Im going to make some phone calls and see if I can get a good head for about $300-$450..

    I already spent $400 on parts for this job, $450 more and I could have just bought an engine in the first place.
    I'd pay MORE for your rebuilt head than another 'good' one. Whatever you pick up used may have cooties as well.

    Dave

    As long as they're using (assuming its not cracked)

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    Ahhh the old thinning valve trick... never heard of this.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

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