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Thread: If replacing all steering components...my shimmy saga

  1. #1
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    Default If replacing all steering components...my shimmy saga

    Hey guys - swapping wheels tonight I decided to give my car a look-over and shook the wheel. It seems like the drivers side wheel has a little more left/right shake-ability... like left/right as in if turning the steering wheel left/right. I looked under as best I could with the car up and it seems like the control arms aren't going anywhere. I shook on the control arms and teh ball joints felt good, and the urethane thrust arm bushing looks great, and the lower control arm bushing wouldn't move much when pried on. I am thinking its my steering linkages.

    So - what should I replace? Tie rods (with ends), drag bar, idler arm, what else? Also - I'd like to tighten up my steering box but I am not sure how.

    Finally - what brands should I go with? I know Lemforder is the usual one to go with right? There's Lemforder, Meyle, Ocap, TRW or TWR or something... what should I do? Thanks all

  2. #2
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    Jon,

    I had the same shake on mine, so I borrowed some original wheels and the bloody thing still has faint shimmy but no where near what was happening before.

    Getting my wheels re-balanced to see if this helps.
    Also, when I took off one of the wheels the nuts weren't tight (not loose) which made me a think that could have been the problem.

    Greg
    E30 318iS & BMW K1200LT

  3. #3
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    I have OEM bottle caps on the front. They are tight. The hub assembly can shake by hand back and forth some a little on each side. More so on the drivers side. I suspect the ball joints in each steering linkage are going bad. I don't think this is just an issue with balancing I've tried 3 sets of wheels/tires.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like you have eliminated the usual suspects. Guess it is time to start replacing steering parts.
    Good luck. I'm following your progress.
    Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.

    Greg
    E30 318iS & BMW K1200LT

  5. #5
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    I was able to see visible motion on the ball joint (front one - shaft faces up) by jacking the wheel up and carefully pushing on the wheel (had my wife do it).

    You can see my rant on my recent thread

    Damn dodge neon has bigger ball joints - there I said it again

    Scott
    1995 BMW 525i w/139K miles, EAT Chip - (Gone)
    07 525i 22K, 07 328xi (41K)
    1982 Mazda RX-7 w/147K miles (Back again!)

  6. #6
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    heh yeah scott - a long time ago i replaced a tie rod end on the pass side, and now, I wouldn't be surprised if one is faulty on the drivers side. going to bring the car up to the lift this weekend and check it out on the lift.

  7. #7
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    FWIW, my shimmy was a drivers side tie rod.

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K View Post
    heh yeah scott - a long time ago i replaced a tie rod end on the pass side, and now, I wouldn't be surprised if one is faulty on the drivers side. going to bring the car up to the lift this weekend and check it out on the lift.
    LIft is way to go - but if you can get someone to move the wheel laterally while you glare at the joints - it may be more obvious (tie rod or ball joint).

    Really, I think the problem is the motor that you have in that car (with the turbo). I think you should put it in my car to see if it solves your problem

    1995 BMW 525i w/139K miles, EAT Chip - (Gone)
    07 525i 22K, 07 328xi (41K)
    1982 Mazda RX-7 w/147K miles (Back again!)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott C View Post
    LIft is way to go - but if you can get someone to move the wheel laterally while you glare at the joints - it may be more obvious (tie rod or ball joint).

    Really, I think the problem is the motor that you have in that car (with the turbo). I think you should put it in my car to see if it solves your problem

    haha i'll think about it

    yeah i dont think its the ball joints on the control arms which is reassuring - i just dont like doing those... and i didnt see the urethane mount moving at all, which re-establishes my faith in the grunt units

  10. #10
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    I have Lamfoerder tie rods and they work great. They come painted black, so they won't rust which is a plus.

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