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Thread: Sway Bar Link - Front - Symptoms

  1. #1
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    Default Sway Bar Link - Front - Symptoms

    What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by angusbn View Post
    What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?
    The bodywork may dip a tad more to that side on a corner or you may get the odd clunk. You can drop and replace the torsion bar easily and safely when the wheels are on so I dont see it making a hell of a difference. Replacement is a piece of cake and dead cheap. If you suspect they are shot or the boots are gone replace them. Will take you all of an hour to do both including cigarette and coffee breaks

  3. #3
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    a metallic clinking sound over rough roads or bumps.

    replacement is not as easy as everyone makes it out to be. I had a ton of trouble getting mine off, there is not a lot of room to get a good grip on things without an offset box wrench, and even then, corrosion can make things difficult.

  4. #4
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    Yep metallic noise over rough surfaces... I've got mine back I think I killed the rubber boots when doing the shocks. Piece of cake to change... Check the nuts a couple of weeks afer doing them to make sure they're still correctly torqued - mine came loose and started to clunk.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by angusbn View Post
    What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?
    I just replaced mine on my 95 540i. It is really easy to do. If they spin there are two flats on them to put a spanner on to keep the nut from spinning. I don't remember for sure but I believe it was a 15mm. I used air tools also. It took about 15 minutes a side. It took longer just to get the car up in the air high enough for me to get under it easy.
    Johan

  6. #6
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    everything is easy with air tools.

  7. #7
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    I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

    Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by angusbn View Post
    I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

    Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.
    Don't give up! I went at a VERY stubborn rear subframe bush for a week (literally) and I got there in the end... I learnt a lot I can tell you.

    If the nuts are really gone you still have options... I've had a similar thing happen to me - I got a hacksaw and sawed throught the nut and bolt... Or you could get a good drill and just drill through it.

    There's always a way out of a tricky situation...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    There's always a way out of a tricky situation...
    My way out: jam your open-ended spanner to stop the lot turning and use a socket and breaker bar on the nut. The nut should either turn or it will break. If that doesnt work use a use a splitter or a hacksaw.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by angusbn View Post
    I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

    Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.
    spray WD40 and there is no way you cannot remove it. also beware, I just removed the links a few days ago and for one nut, you had to use a 2nd spanner to block the link's top bolt

    PS: I'm stuck on the bushings! hopefully I have another car

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