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Thread: Powerflex bushings - fitting

  1. #1
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    Default Powerflex bushings - fitting

    Okay, the heavens opened so I've only got one side done, and by god was it a bitch of a job!

    Found that you can just about wind the old bushing out with a three-leg puller and a bit of luck...


    Yes, it's pissing it down


    It takes all of 5 minutes to get the new bushing fitted after the small 4 hour war of getting the old one out...



  2. #2
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    Amazingly, the left side of the car is no longer sagging after fitting this bushing! The car now has an imbalance between left and right with the left wheel sitting in the arch like it was designed to... I noticed when lifting the car the core of the old bushing was moving freely up and down inside the rubber of the bushing - I wonder if this is why E34 rear suspension sags so badly as it ages?

  3. #3
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    Looking good mate!

    You've got me tempted with them, how much and were did you source them?! You'll have to give a reveiw once they're both in!!!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Looking good mate!

    You've got me tempted with them, how much and were did you source them?! You'll have to give a reveiw once they're both in!!!
    They're about 25 quid a pair [EDIT: I meant side!] mate!

    They're soooo easy to put back in after you've just battled the old bushings out - it was a total 'WTF!?' moment

    Something that's been nagging me though - I couldnt saw through the rubber using either a metal blade or a wood blade - am I just not trying hard enough or something?
    Last edited by Ferret; 04-29-2008 at 08:41 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret
    They're about 25 quid a pair [EDIT: I meant side!] mate!

    They're soooo easy to put back in after you've just battled the old bushings out - it was a total 'WTF!?' moment

    Something that's been nagging me though - I couldnt saw through the rubber using either a metal blade or a wood blade - am I just not trying hard enough or something?
    Hey thanks for the info!

    I used a jigsaw and had trouble for a long time until I just said **** it and went nuts on it. At first I was worried about cutting too far, but once I decided to go hard at it it wasn't too long before it was out! Putting some oil on the blade was the way forward too as it helps the blade move through the rubber... Oh and I used metal blades I think!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by leicesterboy15
    Good job mate, I think this is on the cards for me as well, it books as a 5 hour job at a garage apparently. Did you have to get the car on axle stands or can you use ramps?
    Axel stands are sound for this job, do one side at a time... Have a look at this it may come in handy:

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=35718
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  7. #7
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    The bush sits flush with the subframe plate below. Is this correct?


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Claude
    According to other treads it's rather tough to fit in new subframe bushing (special lubricant recommanded and must put the bushing in the freezer couples of hours before doing the job...). If it was that easy, is it to say that the subframe assembly may easily play along your new bushing and possibly knock the bottom plate / rod ? The bushing seems to have kind of shoulder on subframe top but it's not the case at the bottom end, so if the bushing is not real stiff in the frame don't you think you may experience a play there (handling compromise and possible clink noise)?
    The bushings have shoulders at the TOP and BOTTOM - they do not require a friction fit to keep the subframe in place!


    Unlike the genuine subframe parts that only have a shoulder at the bottom:


    With the double shoulder above, super tight friction is not necessary as the subframe is effectively locked from moving up or down.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by healtoeit
    Are they Poly bushings? Also where did you get them from?
    Yeah, they're slightly rubberised poly bushings - just rubberised enough to not transmit diff noise etc!

    Got them from ebay - manufacturer http://www.powerflex.co.uk

    You should be able to get them all over the world, but I may consider exporting some for people that cant find them...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigKriss
    The bush sits flush with the subframe plate below. Is this correct?
    Yeah mate, top and bottom the bush is profiled such that it takes the maximum slack out of the system - the shoulders at the top and bottom are under slight compression when the whole lot's bolted together.

    There's literally nowhere for the subframe to go - it cant flex up and down like with the old genuine bushing.

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