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Thread: New engine, cranking, not getting oil pressure

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Gateshead,UK
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    926

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    Hi Jon,
    It took a while to put the oil light out when I rebuilt my M20. In fact it was spinning on the starter for so long I was worried that the lube was going to dry out. One the engine fired up thelight went off.

    HTH,

    Shaun M

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Wellington,New Zealand
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    god to hear that you are good to go Jon.A worrying interlude indeed!

    edit,this should actually be post #9
    Last edited by Paul in NZ; 04-25-2008 at 09:06 AM.
    Gone but not forgotten

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    PA
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    Default New engine, cranking, not getting oil pressure

    Hey all - I just put my engine together and its all good to go, I have a VAC upgraded oil pump. I have the spark plugs out and I crank for maybe 8 - 10 secs to get oil pressure and I am not getting oil pressure. If I hold the key to about 10 secs I get a bit of a squeak/rattle almost like a cam turning without oil or something - I don't like the sound.

    I filled the oil up and all, and I poured some down in the oil filter canister and watched it go down the center hole - i also filled the oil filter housing up some and depressed the spring loaded valve thing and watched some oil go down that.

    What do I do?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    If the pump wasn't primed with oil or Vaseline you will need to crank a long time befor any noticeable pressure builds. Don't know what the noise might be but if properly lubed during assembly there should be no worry. Maybe a cam chain tensioner?
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    150

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    I made this rig for the VG30DETT motor, and you could probably make something similar for the M50. Although I'm not sure how you'd make an attachment with the M50's oil filter assembly:

    http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300z...-oil-pump.html

  6. #6
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    Dec 2003
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    PA
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    Ugh guys I dunno I feel sick to my stomach thinking I have something more serious wrong



    Anyone know what each port does? #2 and #3 are spring loaded. Not sure what they do but I pushed the one down and pulled the other up to get oil everywhere in the canister. #4 accepts oil, as does #1. My oil level is high in the pan now, about 1/8" over the top line on the dipstick.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2007
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    San Jose, CA
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    Can you take the valve cover off and lube what you can of the lobes? You seem very worried it's the cam.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryPopTart
    Can you take the valve cover off and lube what you can of the lobes? You seem very worried it's the cam.
    Yeah I am 100% it was the top end/cams. The head was near dry. I pulled the VC added about 3/4 of a quart on the top end of the motor. Had my mother crank the car while watching the oil level inside the cannister with the lid off, and saw it rise! This got me pumped, so I dumped some more oil in the head, sealed up the lid, cranked, bam, pressure!

  9. #9
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    I unplugged my standalone ECU - but it took worlds longer than 30 seconds, which is what I've seen other people say too - its been a long time (if ever?) that I've had to turn a motor on with a brand brand brand new oil pump

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    Disconnect the return line from the turbo and keep cranking until you have oil there too. The bearing clearance there won't tolerate any starvation.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

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