Heat still blowing with AC on?

[Jehu]

Testing out my AC today I put in most of a can of r134 , I checked the fusees for the ac and vents ,all OK. Ac light comes on when i hit the button,check. Feeling air chilling but still feeling warm air mixing in. This mixing lessens when I open the de-mister and floor vents. When I close them the warm mixing increases. The heater valves were new about a year ago BUT I did ( against strong advice) dump some Cream of Wheat style coolant leak sealer in to buy me some time with a leaking Heater Core. I eventually did a flush of the coolant system a while after replacing the Heater Core but I suppose that crap could still be mucking up the valves. I just didn't clearly recall this mixing changing before with the movement of the windshield defog and foot-well vents opening. The heat does increase when I turn the dash center wheel up to red and it drops when i turn it down to blue so I thought that meant the Heater valves were opening and closing. Could this problem be a step motor issue where ducts aren't sealing properly allowing the always on dash and floor to bleed in to the dash vents?

I've read this and am kind of wondering if I'm facing going back in. I wonder if I damaged a stepper motor when replacing the heater core..

[shogun]

Wheat style coolant leak sealer

could look like this then
http://www.7-forum.com/forum/24/heiz...gen-44167.html

http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht1.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht2.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht4.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht5.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht6.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht7.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht8.JPG

I never used and will never use that kind of stuff

[Jehu]

could look like this then
http://www.7-forum.com/forum/24/heiz...gen-44167.html

http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht1.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht2.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht4.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht5.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht6.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht7.JPG
http://www.venturi-racing.de/engine4...hlerdicht8.JPG

I never used and will never use that kind of stuff

I was warned and when I mentioned it to a Russian BMW tech he was very emphatic it was something you should never under any circumstances do... but I did. The stuff looked more organic than metallic is all I can say , almost like a thick Breakfast cereal, Mucilage like. I'd still rather be forced to replace the heater valves than remove the heater console like on Johan's page...

[shogun]

Open the heater valves, even no need to remove the heater valve blovk from engine room, just open the top and remove it.

or:

checking the heater valves
From ignition key position 1 (radio can be switched on) the heater valves get 12 V.

As they get only impulses the usual method to test with a digital multimeter (DMM) is limited, as it always only shows the middle/average value.
Switch the thumbwheel on the IHKA control panel to 28 degree C (max), then the +V line should be interrupted/cut off to the heater valves. At minium 16 degree C. ground/mass is fully on the valves, so that the valves close completely to interrupt the water/coolant flow thru the valves.
Best way to test is to use one of the old style test lights (cord test light) with the thin pin to pinch thru the isolation of the wires of the heater valve wiring. With this way of checking one can test if the problem are the heater valves or the control panel/module.
At max. 28 degree C. the light should be fully/always off, at 16 degree C minimum temperature the light should be fully on. In between 16 and 28 degree adjustment the light should blink, but in different intervals depending on the adjustment. Best is to switch the blower fan to max also, as otherwise the heater valves are adjusted automatically by the system, and the blinking frequency is reduced.

[Jehu]

Wonderful,thanks. If the Voltages are correct then i likely have this stop leak gunk keeping the valves from closing fully. OK

[Jehu]

If you have the AC on, IHK dialed to full cold (Heater valves shut) And you open the foot well and or windshield de-mister Vents you should not feel any heat CORRECT? If I am getting Heat with the AC on and IHK dialed full Cold then my Heater valves aren't shutting completely probably due to the Stop leak I added CORRECT? I was just pondering today. If the Windshield and Foot vents are fed from the same and only Heater core then with the Heater valves shut after dialing the IHK to full Cold neither when opened should deliver hot air . They are not fed from another hose right? They get air from the same Air Box as the dash which just has the Ducting directing Air,Right?If these points are all true then I think I can conclude my Heater valves are gummed up and not shutting fully or rather it appears just the one feeding the Driver's side is gummed since the passenger side doesn't get the same warm mixing with Ac on . That last fact which i realized today further strengthened my belief the valve was not closing fully and my problem would be resolved by replacing those and I did not need to be concerned about broken Duct Flaps. This would be why the feet and windshield are blowing hot with AC on because the valve is allowing coolant to the heater core.. If This is incorrect and the feet and de-mister get hot coolant from another hose independent of the Heater Core then my whole premise is junk and the issie may not be resovled with new heater valves... Its been a long week already...