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Thread: Thrust Arm Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2

    Default Thrust Arm Replacement

    I need some help/advice. I'm replacing the thrust arms (aka upper control arms) on my '95 540i. I have new arms with bushings pressed in, new washers and self-locking 22mm nuts for the bushing end.

    Problem: How in the #$%* do you get a wrench on that nut on the bushing end? It's really tight between the frame and the sway bar link bracket. This wasn't covered in the manual. Has anyone done this? The bolt end seems fairly accessible, but I'm assuming I'll have to hold the nut end with something to torque it down. Especially unclear is how I'll do this with the wheels on and car lowered.

    Car is up on jack stands now, any help would be appreciated.
    Last edited by Chazmati; 01-27-2008 at 04:52 PM. Reason: corrected title

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    6,922

    Default

    the box end of most wrenches fit in there i find, if not you can unbolt the rear cross member partially and get the room you need, as for pretensioning the arm with the suspension unloaded i tighten the through bolt with the ball joint end sitting on the steering arm instead of down in it's hole, that's about the right position
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    63

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    it is a job but its ok once you get going 22mm spanner on the tight part and then a breaker bar on the other and pull like mad once you get it going its ok and will come off with out to much fuss unless like me you have the bolt the wrong way then your have to drop a lot down just to get it out.
    to torque it up your need the ramps or try jacking the car up then sliding blocks under the wheels so its up in the air but still on the wheels its what i was going to do until a friend said he had ramps

    good luck
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Glasgow, UK
    Posts
    114

    Default

    The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

    16 Feet of pure pleasure

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    63

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doogie
    The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

    humm i must have a messed up setup i just popped a ring spanner on there turned the other end and the spanner locks in
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

  6. #6
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Glasgow, UK
    Posts
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    Default

    this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.

    16 Feet of pure pleasure

  7. #7
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    May 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    Thanks Doogie! The "unreachable nut" is exactly what I was talking about. Aborted mission for today, will grind down an open end wrench and try again. Or maybe like Calibra mentioned I can try to get a box end wrench in the right spot and turn the bolt until it lines up and locks in.

  8. #8
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    yea e32s are tighter then e34s at the nut

    Quote Originally Posted by doogie
    this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    63

    Default

    just use a breaker bar i used two spanners joined up on the first side and when the nut cracked i smashed my leg on the disc, after what came out my mouth next door closed their windows lol

    the higher you can get the car the better i think.
    there is a very easy way i had to do it on the other side because some of the other parts i had to drop wouldnt move use one of these http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/na...isSearch=false
    and cut the bugger off
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doogie
    this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.
    good link doogie i have saved it but you see in the picture where the unreachable nut is on mine they were round the other way so to get the arm out i had to drop all sorts down just to get the bolt out.
    one side of the car is still round the wrong way but the other is right after cutting the bolt
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

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