Thrust Arm Replacement

[Chazmati]

I need some help/advice. I'm replacing the thrust arms (aka upper control arms) on my '95 540i. I have new arms with bushings pressed in, new washers and self-locking 22mm nuts for the bushing end.

Problem: How in the #$%* do you get a wrench on that nut on the bushing end? It's really tight between the frame and the sway bar link bracket. This wasn't covered in the manual. Has anyone done this? The bolt end seems fairly accessible, but I'm assuming I'll have to hold the nut end with something to torque it down. Especially unclear is how I'll do this with the wheels on and car lowered.

Car is up on jack stands now, any help would be appreciated.

[winfred]

the box end of most wrenches fit in there i find, if not you can unbolt the rear cross member partially and get the room you need, as for pretensioning the arm with the suspension unloaded i tighten the through bolt with the ball joint end sitting on the steering arm instead of down in it's hole, that's about the right position

[Ross]

the box end of most wrenches fit in there i find, if not you can unbolt the rear cross member partially and get the room you need, as for pretensioning the arm with the suspension unloaded i tighten the through bolt with the ball joint end sitting on the steering arm instead of down in it's hole, that's about the right position

Why didn't I ever think of that?

[Ross]

I think a lot of problems occur here because of the kind of wrenches some folks have.
Good quality tools are expensive, large good quality tools are really expensive. The temptation to buy that set of big wrenches from India is great when comparing prices. The problem is those el cheapos get their "strength" from bulk rather than good alloy and accurate machining. These might work just fine on an oil rig but are often bulky enough to be worthless for automotive work.
One more reason not to use crappy tools.

[calibra]

it is a job but its ok once you get going 22mm spanner on the tight part and then a breaker bar on the other and pull like mad once you get it going its ok and will come off with out to much fuss unless like me you have the bolt the wrong way then your have to drop a lot down just to get it out.
to torque it up your need the ramps or try jacking the car up then sliding blocks under the wheels so its up in the air but still on the wheels its what i was going to do until a friend said he had ramps

good luck

[doogie]

The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

[calibra]

The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

humm i must have a messed up setup i just popped a ring spanner on there turned the other end and the spanner locks in

[doogie]

this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.

[Chazmati]

Thanks Doogie! The "unreachable nut" is exactly what I was talking about. Aborted mission for today, will grind down an open end wrench and try again. Or maybe like Calibra mentioned I can try to get a box end wrench in the right spot and turn the bolt until it lines up and locks in.

[winfred]

yea e32s are tighter then e34s at the nut

this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.