M30 oil pan and timing cover gaskets

[Ken35i]

Hi guys,

I have a '89 535i/A (converted to a 5-speed ).

I've been lurking these forums for a while and it's really helped me along doing work on my car. That being replacing the head gasket. Been a long drawn-out job so far. But anyway.

Oil pan -
The head has been out for a while now and I figured 'while I'm there' I'll replace the gaskets around the engine. Trying to replace the oil pan gasket and the timing cover gaskets.
From this thread http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...il+pan+removal. What I didn't understand is did you guy just drop the oil pan and replace gasket or were able to remove the pan from the car entirely?
I've undone the engine and trans mounts and lifted the engine as far as it will go (the top of the g/box is touching the firewall) but I can't remove the the pan due to the crossmember being in the way. Considering using a engine hoist/lift since I've just the block in there...I've removed alot of stuff...

Timing cover -
Using this diagram...



To remove the timing cover I need to remove the hub (part 7) yes? How does one remove the hub? Is it bolted on via the massive nut or pressed on? Also, if I remove it, will I be able to install it in the exact possition as it was? ie. is there a locating dowel or key-way?

Well that's enough for now. I'm sure there will be much more stuff to come.

Looking forward to your replies.

Thank you.

[Ross]

Try rotating the crank to clear the counter weights, #6 to TDC according to Bentley.
The hub is retained with big 32?mm nut, it only goes back on one way and it's snug but not pressed. The tightening torque is something like 300ft/lb so find a long bar.

[gale]

I replaced the pan gasket on my wife's e36 m50 this summer and ended up taking the subframe off while having the engine raised as high as it could go like you have done. It looks like an excessive amount of work but really isn't that bad. I also removed the subframe from my former e28 m20 many years ago and it is much the same as an e34 in that respect. That way the pan comes clear off without having to separate the oil pump/sump business.

Can't say for certain if the hub item 7 is keyed but I'm assuming it would have to be to keep it from spinning.

[winfred]

7 is held on with the 36mm nut and it's not just tight but ****ing tight, generally the timing covers are leak free on the m30 with the exception of the bolts getting loose, at which point you just tighten them and are usually good to go, pan gaskets can be done with the engine up on 3-4" worth of wood blocks under the mounts, i unbolt the pump and drop it into the pan, use red lock tight on the pump sprocket and get the fiber gasket for a e28 535 instead of the cork piece of **** they usually sell for the e34

[Ken35i]

I replaced the pan gasket on my wife's e36 m50 this summer and ended up taking the subframe off while having the engine raised as high as it could go like you have done. It looks like an excessive amount of work but really isn't that bad. I also removed the subframe from my former e28 m20 many years ago and it is much the same as an e34 in that respect. That way the pan comes clear off without having to separate the oil pump/sump business.

I did read that in the other thread. Looked up the procedure in Bentley's, checked it out on the car and it looked like a bit of work, but mainly with the stearing box. I'll give it a shot.



Thanks a lot for the replies.