Searched. Have Clues. No Luck Yet.

[ericbendler]

I would really appreciate having one to work with. Thanks!

Who knows...after checking the DME, all seemed well with the seals so far as rain water would be concerned.

[ryan roopnarine]

i don't remember your address. if you pm it to me, i'll have it to you after 3 or so.

[ericbendler]

I would really appreciate the injector. Your PM is full so I needed to send the message here.

The HD on my desktop has crashed since you brought that file on PDF. Do you think it would be pushing it if I got another copy off you?

Thanks. With the combination of the fault reader and the Bently, I think I can do a pretty good job keeping it out of the shop and on the road.

Anytime you need to use the code reader, or wanna clear your codes, just let me know.

229 NW 16th Ave.

[ericbendler]

Let me say first that I don't even remember what it was like to drive my e34.

Ok. I have replaced the following parts (in this order) to see why my car won't run #1.

Switched out ignition coil #1
tried another fuel injector
swapped ECUs
replaced the battery


I have not checked the voltage at the DME relay yet, as it took me a while to research where it was, but that is next.

I guess it is off to the import shop when I get my fin. aid.

I have spark, and the a strong start, but cylinder #1 won't run. (squirted water on 2-6 exhaust manifold. Water on #1 just sits there.

There is A LOT of black carbon on the top of the piston, but there is nothing for me to believe that its an internal engine issue.

I fixed my hood seal, and checked the fusebox.

Crankcase position sensor? Should I be VERY nervous that a mouse scurried away when I opened my ECU box the first time?

The code I get is "Control Unit Supply". I am thinking that I would have been better off going with CarSoft or something instead of paying $140 dollars for a Peake Code Reader that just spits out a code at me.

[ryan roopnarine]

anyone want to take a stab at this?

despite eric's having swapped out a fuel injector and a coil on #1, the car still appears to be dead on such. i probed the fuel injector rail with a VOM and found that the supply to the #1 fuel injector was either 0 volts or a steady .1 volts. all of the other injectors had normal .2-.3 variable voltages, as they were going up/down though the meter was not fast enough to determine such. when eric opened the dme box, a mouse ran out. short circuit somewhere in the harness maybe? i lent him my dme to try for 3-4 minutes max, as i figured that that short an exposure probably wouldn't fry it, even if there was a short circuit.

[Ferret]

I'd be pulling/inspecting all the loom that you can get at...

I got fed up of repairing gnawed wiring at my parents house a long time ago - the little buggers seem to take it on as a personal hobby. You may find it's tried to make a nest under your DME box and chewed through some rather vital insulation.

I'd be trying the following:
Disconnect both battery terminals
Pop your injector electronics rail
Unplug your ECU out of it's hole in the DME box
Test resistance across all the injector plug terminals - not the injector itself, just the wiring

You'll know if you've got a short as while the dme is out of the loom all the injector wiring should be open circuit - if you've got one that's showing a circuit with resistance you know you've got a short in the loom...

[BigKriss]

what, you mean like mickey mouse?

............. when eric opened the dme box, a mouse ran out. short circuit somewhere in the harness maybe? i lent him my dme to try for 3-4 minutes max, as i figured that that short an exposure probably wouldn't fry it, even if there was a short circuit.

[ryan roopnarine]

yeah, like a real mouse. the thing that everyone in florida is employed by. the mouse in question was smaller than this, iirc.

[genphreak]

anyone want to take a stab at this?

despite eric's having swapped out a fuel injector and a coil on #1, the car still appears to be dead on such. i probed the fuel injector rail with a VOM and found that the supply to the #1 fuel injector was either 0 volts or a steady .1 volts. all of the other injectors had normal .2-.3 variable voltages, as they were going up/down though the meter was not fast enough to determine such. when eric opened the dme box, a mouse ran out. short circuit somewhere in the harness maybe? i lent him my dme to try for 3-4 minutes max, as i figured that that short an exposure probably wouldn't fry it, even if there was a short circuit.

Did you run a new wire to #1 injector?