Symptoms of a bad clutch slave?

[Jon K]

I am leaking brake fluid from somewhere toward the transmission, I believe. I have noticed that my clutch is either slipping or something else is up - but basically I will floor the car in 5th and boost will start to build, and then, nothing. Like, the revs don't go up and the car isn't going any faster. I checked for boost leaks and it seems too coincidental that I am leaking brake fluid and now I have issues with the car going.

Could the clutch not be fully engaging? I have a 6 puck clutch and it is usually pretty chunky when trying to slip it. Now, however, it feels very stock like and I don't get that jitter when starting from a stop no matter how much I slip it (puck clutches don't like being slipped). Additionally, it seems like I can change gears with only putting the clutch in about 1" or 1.5" from the top. It's almost like the clutch isn't coming back out all the way though the pedal feels normal!

Any help?

[winfred]

the hydraulics usually won't mess with the engagement of the clutch unless they are for some reason jambed (very rare) or puked fluid on the clutch, if it's leaking id definetly change the slave

[infurno]

When my slave went bad, the peddle sank to the floor and would not rise. I didnt experience your symptoms

[Turbo Ready]

Jon, thats a tough one. If the clutch was not engaging, you will be building revs and the car would barely move, but you said that you were not building revs which is strange.

Not building revs under boost sounds like an engine issue. If on the other hand the clutch was not releasing, you won't be able to start it, it would be like starting in gear, the car will launch forward while you crank the starter.

What I would do if I were you is to start the car in neutral, depress the clutch, put it in first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal to see where the clutch "bites."
This will tell you where the clutch engages with reference to pedal travel.

Second test would be to repeat above except depressing the clutch pedal just above engagement, hold it there for 30 seconds at that same spot. By doing so you are checking to see if the slave or master cylinder is leaking, if they are leaking, the pressure would drop and the clutch will engage, the car will move.

[Jon K]

the hydraulics usually won't mess with the engagement of the clutch unless they are for some reason jambed (very rare) or puked fluid on the clutch, if it's leaking id definetly change the slave

Yeah its weird the car just doesn't seem to pull right. I am going to datalog on my drive up to the garage to see what's leaking tomorrow. I am getting really frustrated with **** lately.

Winfred if the slave is leaking could it have air in it? And what would air do to the setup? I can picture if air got in it it would not let the fluid back up the line, and that could sort of hold the clutch in somewhat?

[Jon K]

Jon, thats a tough one. If the clutch was not engaging, you will be building revs and the car would barely move, but you said that you were not building revs which is strange.

Not building revs under boost sounds like an engine issue. If on the other hand the clutch was not releasing, you won't be able to start it, it would be like starting in gear, the car will launch forward while you crank the starter.

What I would do if I were you is to start the car in neutral, depress the clutch, put it in first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal to see where the clutch "bites."
This will tell you where the clutch engages with reference to pedal travel.

Second test would be to repeat above except depressing the clutch pedal just above engagement, hold it there for 30 seconds at that same spot. By doing so you are checking to see if the slave or master cylinder is leaking, if they are leaking, the pressure would drop and the clutch will engage, the car will move.

Yeah the car will start just fine without catching gear. It almost seems as though if I drive it for a while it gets weird. I can't imagine the engine having issues - I will check the turbo tomorrow when it's not raining. I will probably order a new slave cylinder on monday and do that one day this week or next weekend. I am going to try to the clutch above engagement point and see if its leaking if it catches.

The 6 puck used to be real grabby/jerky, and now it's not so. I hadn't driven the car for a couple weeks almost so maybe the slave was leaking and letting it sit it go air in it and now I am having issues? Dunno.

[Jon K]

Also what brand slave cyl should I get?



Fahrzeug Technik Ebern (FTE)-FAG
Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 per car.

$58.19


or




Febi-Bilstein (Alternate Brand)
Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 per car.


$42.96

[winfred]

air would reduce the travel of the piston not hold it out further, air in your brakes doesn't cause them to lock up, same type of system

[winfred]

flip a coin either should work fine, i don't think either are made from plastic, yet, fag is oem but i can't remember getting a bad bilstein

Also what brand slave cyl should I get?



Fahrzeug Technik Ebern (FTE)-FAG
Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 per car.

$58.19


or




Febi-Bilstein (Alternate Brand)
Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 per car.


$42.96

[Turbo Ready]

If the slave was leaking, you might find the pedal softer than usual. Why your 6 puck is not as sharp as it used to be is tough to figure out. If a car is left parked for a while rotors will rust quickly, not too sure if the same moisture and condensation will cause your pressure plate or flywheel to do the same.

Another almost impossible cause, brake fluid getting into the clutch assembly, but as I said, that would be very unlikely.