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Thread: 525i Clutch Master Replacement tricks?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    91

    Default 525i Clutch Master Replacement tricks?

    I am about to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder in my 1990 525i with M20 engine. The front of the master is mighty hard to reach, as it's under the brake booster, pretty close to the side. Does anyone have any tips on this? It looks like one just gets a wrench in to undo the nut on the line, then undoes the rest from inside the car. Slave is easy. Comments from someone who's been there are welcome.

    Thanks,

    vince
    Naperville, IL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    West Palm Beach, South Florida
    Posts
    1,011

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    Havent done the master, only the slave, but if I WAS going to do it, I would consider taking out the driver seat and laying in the car with my head pointed up.

    I'm sure you know this part, but buy lots of plastic as the fluid is going to go everywhere (unless you drain the slave first).
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    4,243

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    Attatching the hydro line while everything is still loose makes life a bit easier.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,235

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross
    Attatching the hydro line while everything is still loose makes life a bit easier.
    And after you have the old one out... resist the temptation to push on the shaft "just to see" how much resistance there is. I'll tell you - there is just enough to make you think you can't get it to move... then it moves and squirts brake fluid all over your garage.

    EDIT - hydraulic lines can be a PITA to put back in, especially the solid ones. You probably know this... but give yourself some slack in the fittings when threading them back in. If you can't thread them in at least 1/2 way by hand you may have a crossed thread, back it out and try again. It's real easy to get those hydraulic lines in just barely crooked and bung up the threads.
    Last edited by Robin-535im; 10-03-2007 at 09:53 PM.
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Hey, thanks for all the replies. The only area of concern for me is removing and attaching the hydraulic line in the front of the master. I have small hands and even then can barely get my fingertips on the line. Plug #12 on my 750iL is much easier!

    Now to get into it tomorrow night, and Friday, and hopefully it will be done easy by Saturday.

    vince

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