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Thread: Anyone change water pump on a 540iA?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    16

    Default Anyone change water pump on a 540iA?

    The darn thing is leaking from the shaft. I loathe to do this myself, but budget is tight and it has to be done.

    I couldn't find a thorough DIY procedure on the M60. Anyone done it themselves can give some tips?

    My main concerns:

    1. Did you take the throttle body off? It's hard to maneuver your way or even see what you're doing with it being there, especially with the hood hinged on the front and you're working from the side.

    2. Those 2 water pipes passing under the intake manifold.. what in heavens name did you do to keep them in place while wrestling the pump out of the o-rings?

    3. The vibration damper is a big chunk of metal. It seems that the one water pump bolt behind it can be undone without removing it. Does it really need to come off?

    4. Is this thing really self-bleeding as everybody says? No vent screws and no massaging hoses?


    I've done this before on an M42 and M52TU, but the complexity of this engine (and the hood in the front) is just making me uneasy about the whole thing.

    Any help is much appreciated.
    Last edited by merlin; 09-16-2007 at 10:32 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    I did this a few weeks ago when I took the intake manifold off, obviously the throttle body was off as well. I don't have any idea how anyone could do the job without removing it because as you said, it is tight in there.

    The water pipes running under the manifold were not a significant problem for me since I had the manifold off. The only suggestion I have is to try to hold the pipes in place with one hand and try to get the pump out with the other. I wouldn't think that the pipes comming out would be a huge deal other than having a little coolant under the manifold and having a hard time getting them back in the right holes. I didn't get to replace the o-rings because I forgot to order them.

    The bottom bolt on the water pump is quite frankly a beotch to get out and back on. I just used a 10mm wrench to slowly turn it out but had a 10mm pivoting ratchet wrench to put it back in with. It takes time and patience but is do-able.

    Yes, the system is self bleeding. Refill the coolant, let the car warm up enough for the tstat to open and check to see if you need more.

    I'm not sure how much these will help but here are some pictures

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Great Britain
    Posts
    446

    Default

    I can't remember where I saw this hint but apparently you want to take care not to dislodge the two metal pipes that go to the back of the engine as otherwise you'll have a lot of agro making a good seal.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Thanks for sharing. This job is going to test my patience.

    Those 2 pipes are a particular nightmare, I hope I don't dislodge them from the accumulator and end up removing the intake manifold to position them back in.

    No wonder there's hardly any documented DIY on this. And there's no relief even if you take it to a shop, they'll just butcher the car and screw your wallet.


    Any more helpful tips are moooost welcome. A big thanks in advance.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    its not that bad of a job at all, take the easy stuff off for more access. You should be able to wiggle the pump off the coolant tube in front easy enough. If the back pops off you have a 90% chance of it leaking even if you can magically get it back on there. The little bolt on the botton is a complete bastard, takes longer to mess with that than the whole job.
    Last edited by 632 Regal; 09-15-2007 at 04:09 PM. Reason: dyslexia
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    That little bolt you are talking about is easy if you took off the main crank pulley as instructed...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SCHUYLKILL COUNTY, PA.
    Posts
    571

    Default i pulled my rad. to make more room & so i would also not damage it with tools.

    tim s.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    ~30 Miles North of Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    591

    Default

    I did it without taking the intake manifold or throttle body off. Those pipes can be left alone, as long as you are careful they should stay on back there.

    lol at the one bolt behind the main crank pulley, that thing was annoying. I ended up having to get a small air ratchet to get the main pulley off, because the engine was turning when I tried to unbolt it. (shouldn't the engine be harder to turn?...or is my nikasil that loose from lack of compression...)
    [1994 530i/5-Speed]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    Unnecessary... the main pulley is so easy to remove and install. Tons of room once the fan is removed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    that takes all the fun out of it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger
    Unnecessary... the main pulley is so easy to remove and install. Tons of room once the fan is removed.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

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