Take it to Kwik-fit and ask them to loosen the bolts with an air wrench, spray them and re-tighten, end of problem. Failing that buy a snap-on 18v impact wrench and do lots of stuff with it.
After weeks of shitting myself about getting the car up on axle stands and weeks of sourcing parts and acquiring tools for the job, I finally got the car up today on stands to replace the front suspension arms. Getting the car up was easy, bit nerve racking but easy nonetheless. I thought great now comes the easy bit! Ha! I read all the write ups and I couldn't release a single bolt!
I bit the bullet and went to halfrauds for some more tools and I got the stabiliser links off relatively easily with a 16mm box wrench, not 17mm as in some write ups (?), one of the bolts was so rusted it took a lot of perseverance to get off but I changed both sides without too much bother.
Next the arms! I couldn't find a spanner / wrench or anything else that would even get close to the nut on the thrust arm as the chassis gets in the way and I couldn't shift the bolt so I thought I'd try the control arms. The 3 bolts on the steering mounting plate were impossible! I ripped a socket adapter clean in half trying to move one of these and it still didn't move. So I had the car up on the stands all day and only managed to change the sway bar links! I was worried that I could apply too much pressure and dislodge the car from the stands (even though they never moved and looked solid) so maybe this was a contributing factor - I guess this is where experience prevails, even so I did use quite a lot of force.
Some of you reading this will be laughing in disbelief but I'm not afraid to admit it, it got the better of me, I am pissed off though, I thought this would be it - no more having to stick to 50 mph - the car shakes so violently i'd rather not take the chance to drive out of it incase something else goes wrong. it is incredibly frustrating having to drive a 4 litre V8 at no more than 50 mph, especially as it gets there so quickly!! I have some pics of the problem areas but I haven't downloaded them yet. The wobble is much worse on a set of 18in (straight) wheels than on a set of 17s.
I guess this post is partly for you mechanics to have a laugh, partly to vent my frustration and disappointment that I haven't got my car back and after weeks of prep for it not to happen but also for any tips or tricks / tools to use to get this job done in the reported 2hrs per side!
I am gutted that I haven't sorted this at this visit and even more so that I might have to give in and take it to a garage.
Any tips on axle stands, tools, technique, procedure are greatly appreciated. By the way I used loads of penetrating fluid, in fact if you bought shares in wd40 yesterday you're probably loaded today as I must have singlehandedly gone through a years production.
UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe
Take it to Kwik-fit and ask them to loosen the bolts with an air wrench, spray them and re-tighten, end of problem. Failing that buy a snap-on 18v impact wrench and do lots of stuff with it.
Cheer up, we all have these problems from time to time.
At least you got the sway bar links done ! That's a positive achievement.
I find that some sort of extension on my socket spanner gives me more leverage and allows a better chance of success at loosening badly stuck nuts & bolts.
Keep going - you'll get there and will learn lots from it.
BTW, have you any mates that can give you a hand - I always find 2 heads are better than 1.
"I'm not the village idiot.
But when he retires I'm next on the list."
dude you're halfway done... go introduce yourself to a thick steak, a few pints of guiness, and a lady or two... then sleep eight hours. resume work in the morning
1994 540ia|Oxford Green Metallic|Lemforder|KYB in H&R|18" OE Staggered M-Parallel with Pirelli P-Zero
No offense if getting it in the air was nerve wracking wait until you try to seperate the ball joints...
On the plus side, you didn't hurt yourself (other than a few scraped knuclkes?).
socket adapters always break. you need to get a driver that is the correct size for the socket.
Hey, it took me over a week to change a subframe bushing... I know how you're feeling - I persevered (the hours of labour went into high 20's) and eventually got it done. I learnt so much from that i got the second one in within 15 minutes!!!!!! The worst part was my girlfriend had to drop me off at work all week and pick me up!
I also encountered problems when doing the fuel filter recently because of rusty hardware, I hate it! Just remember, once you get the rusty bolts off its probably best to change them - much easier next time!
Keep going and never give up! Its worth it!
Thanks for the encouragement, Usually I just persevere and get the job done, the last major job was the intake gaskets and PCV plate, I just kept plugging away and after a 6 hour dismantle job, i got it all back together in about 30 minutes. I guess I'm worried about the car falling off its stands if I apply too much pressure, is this a real concern is it very unlikely given the weights etc involved?
What is an impact socket and whats the difference between this and a normal socket? I guess I just need to buy a 22mm spanner that fits the gap for the thrust arm and get some more torque on the steering plate bolts. I like the idea of a power tool though - always the way forward, I think I read up on whats available.
I can't believe nobody else has had this problem? All the write ups on the job and everyone who has done it seems to find it easy. Technically its not hard, its just a few bolts but logistically its a nightmare.
I think I will plug away at it rather than take it to a garage. Yes and on the plus side I have no major injuries, no expensive accidents and new sway bar links.
UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe