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Thread: Banjo Bolt question....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,171

    Default Banjo Bolt question....

    Wonder how many of you guys have suffered this laughable scenerio.
    Have a look:
    [img]banjobolt.jpg[/img]
    Getting ready to safety wire my banjo bolts in...a little dab of loctite 242, set my torque wrench at about 100 in-lbs or mid way between torque spec of 8-10 ft-lbs and started tightening away. Sh!t. The fricking top washer swished and extruded/spit right out from under the head bolt. Torque didn't feel excessive...wrench never clicked out. And of course I only ordered just the right amount of these little aluminum "crush" washers which not only in theory help the seal to the bar but also prevent back out of the bolts due to engine vibration. Hmmm...guess I will manually torque the bolts and set them in there to a bit lower torque to prevent this issue. Take note of the X-drill in the banjo bolt head for safety wiring. Bruno should do a run of these and sell them on-line under Racing King...the way to go.
    Any suggestions/similar occurrences out there? Thoughts on using a steel washer with the same thickness?...retention torque not as big of an issue with safety wire...of course crush/sealing won't be quite as good.
    George...P.S. Thanks Don.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,171

    Default

    hasn't been my day...doing too many things at once...will try that pic again:


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    if i was gonna ues something different then the aluiminum washers id go for copper, i locktight the regular ones all the time
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default George, the torque spec on the banjo bolts is 10nm's max which works out to

    7.34 ft lbs or 88 inch lbs..... That said i will confess that I don't torque them using a torque wrench I use a small 1/4 inch ratchet and hand tighten by feel but my feel has had a long time to develop......









    Quote Originally Posted by George M
    Wonder how many of you guys have suffered this laughable scenerio.
    Have a look:
    [img]banjobolt.jpg[/img]
    Getting ready to safety wire my banjo bolts in...a little dab of loctite 242, set my torque wrench at about 100 in-lbs or mid way between torque spec of 8-10 ft-lbs and started tightening away. Sh!t. The fricking top washer swished and extruded/spit right out from under the head bolt. Torque didn't feel excessive...wrench never clicked out. And of course I only ordered just the right amount of these little aluminum "crush" washers which not only in theory help the seal to the bar but also prevent back out of the bolts due to engine vibration. Hmmm...guess I will manually torque the bolts and set them in there to a bit lower torque to prevent this issue. Take note of the X-drill in the banjo bolt head for safety wiring. Bruno should do a run of these and sell them on-line under Racing King...the way to go.
    Any suggestions/similar occurrences out there? Thoughts on using a steel washer with the same thickness?...retention torque not as big of an issue with safety wire...of course crush/sealing won't be quite as good.
    George...P.S. Thanks Don.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,171

    Default thanks guys...Bill your torque spec....

    does not agree with Bentley..at least the E-32 Bentley for the M-30 Banjo bolts. Page 116-9:
    Oil sprayer bar to cylinder head/new hollow bolt and washers:
    11 to 13 Nm (8 to 10 ft-lbs)
    You must have got your spec from the TIS or elsewhere. In any event, discretion dictates that less torque is needed so will defer to your lower spec and likely also hand tighten the bolts by feel versus use a torque wrench.
    Thanks again,
    George

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