Check Engine - Code 1222 - Pump?

[BIGRED]

Hi All,

Wouldn't start, changed the fuel filters and after a bit of cranking seemed to be running OK. Shut her down and no start again. Tonight I saw the check engine light code 1222 Lambda Control 1.

I was thinking fuel pump until I saw the code and got CONFUSED reading about it.

If I understand it correctly....1222 happens with any event that cause the mixture to be to lean or to rich. If that is so..... I guess the fuel pump in the tank would be a candidate?

I would have thought there would be a code for the fuel pump... but I didn't see one.

Any help appreciated LOTS!!

Don

[mangler]

i had same prob. car would stumble upon hard accel or uphill. tried everything, got 1222 code. finally went to indy and fuel pump.

[JasonZE]

There is not a code for pump on most cars as far as the ecu knows the pump is getting power so should go. Most codes relate to ecu inputs only like sensors,voltages etc.
The only proper way to check pump is inline gauge to measure pressure and flow.
Otherwise get someone to crank and listen for pump operation but dont overlook a faulty feul pump relay as these are as common to fail as pumps but only cost a fraction to replace.

[ThoreauHD]

You have a vacuum leak and O2 sensors are compensating. I see valve cover gaskets in your future.

[BIGRED]

In my case it is the fuel pump or something in or around it.

Smack the fuel pump assembly cover and the car starts and runs fine, shut it off and it won't run. Did it 4 times... same thing each time.

Pulled the pump and to "try to get running, I cleaned the intake screen and agitated the fuel below the screen (seemed to have some metal flakes there and tapped the pump motor.

Put it back I now hear a whirring where as before I could only fell a pulsing in the fuel line and no noticeable sound.

Has re-started 6 times.... seems to be OK.

Thanks for the inputs
Don

[The Stretch]

When my pump went, it had similar symptoms. After sitting for a while, the car would start fine, and the fuel pressure and current draw of the pump would be in spec...for about 15 min. then the fuel pressure would drop, the current draw would reduce to almost 0, and the car would die. it wouldn't restart until i let it sit for a few hours. then it would do it all over again. Pick up a cheap fuel pressure gauge from harbor freight/ northern tool, hook up an ammeter to the pump and let the car run for 20 min or so. the current draw and fuel pressure should stay in spec the whole time. if it slowly drops, you have a bad pump.