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Thread: Periodic loud ticking immediately after oil change M50

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Honolulu
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    3,105

    Default Don't worry

    Continue with the de-sludging.

    Try this trick used on other cars with OH hydrolic lifters.

    bring the RPM up from idle to 1800-2000 RPM slowly a few times to clear the trapped air out of the lifters.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default Thats very strange,

    I put Mobil 1 0w40 in all my customers euro cars and haven't had any problems at all with it. M50,m30,m52,m52tu,m60,m70 , and i'm fairly certain that our ambient temps here are much higher than where your at. I also have valve covers off fairly often and haven't seen any signs of camshaft lobe wear which is one of the first places that would indicate if the oil was insufficient, Here's a birdseye view of a merc that i was working on today that i've been putting mobil one in since 0w40 came out. Cam lobes show no wear and everythings clean, no sludge. Can't say the same about the small block chevy that i worked on last week that spun the number 1 and 2 rod bearings running 20w50 though




    Quote Originally Posted by Russell
    0w30 and 0w40 do not seem to be real suitable for M50s with "advanced" miles. Mine started getting a random idle tick when warm with 0w30 castrol syntec with about 4,500 miles on the fill. I changed to a blend of 10w40 (2 quarts) and 5w50 (4 quarts) castrol syntec and no more warm idle noise.

    0w40 mobil 1 was just noisy. I just did not like it. Going to stay with heavier oils, especially in the summer.
    Attached Images Attached Images   


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Maryland, Virginia, D.C.
    Posts
    705

    Default

    If I were in your position at that mileage with crap on my dipstick and visible sludge under the oil cap, I would focus on cleaning the engine before the tick turns into something worse. http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html. After cleaning it for 3K miles, I would stay 5w-40 redline/amsoil or 0w-40 mobile 1. Then if it persists I'd have a shop check it out for wear/damage. You have alot of miles on this car. Which is not bad, but you have to clean it like it's her first baptism.

    And if all else fails..


  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    Just my experience. I just may have problems with my engine. UOA results have always shown high lead with 0w40 and 0w30 oil. For the 70,000 miles I have owned the car, oil and filter have been changed every 4,000 to 5,000 miles with mostly synthetic. PO followed the oil change lights which meant around 7,000 miles with conventional oil. Lead may just be residiul junk that is left over from 140,000 miles of use. Who knows??

    Car has treated with Auto-RX engine cleaner twice to remove any sludge that might be there. Anyway, car seem to run fine.
    Last edited by Russell; 06-15-2007 at 03:53 PM.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    croatia, zagreb
    Posts
    586

    Default

    the hydraulic valve lifters are used and need replacing. there are 24 of them on every m50 engine.

    valve adjustment is not an option, these engines have automatic valve adjustment, hence the hydraulic valve lifters.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    Ok, I have an update: I ran 15w50 Mobil 1 with a half can of Seafoam for 1200 km's. The ticking was still there, but periodic. So yesterday, I added a can of CRC engine flush, ran the car for 5 mins under no load, and then dropped the oil. I changed the filter, and filled it with 5w50 Castrol Syntec - and 80 km's later, the ticking is STILL gone! So fingers crossed, this might be the solution.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    New Forest, ,UK,
    Posts
    793

    Default

    No experience with BMW lifters but Toyota and GM Euro engines with high rev ability will not cope with pure synthetic oil, pressure drops and lifters tic at low revs.Toyota 4A-GE 1600 would not rev below 3k due to lifter problems but would rev to 10750, on wet sump(!) Go with Mobil 1 as it is thick enough to fill lifters but good enough to cope with oil film separation at high revs.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Our 95 525iT has about 140,000 miles on it & I've run Mobil 1 0w/40 ever since we bought it with no ticking issues.
    90 535im
    02 R1100S, 87 R100S
    76 R90/S,73 R75/5
    Alfa Romeos- 65 Giulia Spider Veloce
    & 66 Duetto 1600 Spider

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    John, I am interested in the oil change history of your car.

    Mine had convetional oil changes, per the service lights-every 6,000 miles by the previous owner until I purchased it at 72,000 miles. I noticed a cold start rattle with heavier oils say 15w40 oil. Tried Mobil 1 for several changes. No cold start rattle, yet engine seemed noiser and UOA showed high lead. No warm iddle issues.

    Finally tried 0w30 Castrol Syntec (german castrol). Started getting a warm idle rattle. Now my Brew of 2 quarts of 10w40 and 4 quarts of 5w50 does not have the warm rattle.

    Even so, I think I will go with a 5w40 or 5w 50 next tiem as I think MY engine for some reason does not do well with a 0 weight oil. Perhps even a heavy 30 weight oil. Perhaps the oil pump is not working well at low rpm. ??? Anyway, just my experience.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

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