Let idler arm ball joint beat itself loose?

[Gene in NC]

Why not let idler arm ball joint beat itself loose? Using puller is a real bear. Up side down, no space, etc. Manufacturer's recommendation for the "U" shaped pullers with bolt at bottom of the"U" calls for tightening the bolt and then hitting the bolt on the head to release the pitman arm, whatever.


Pulling failed when the AZ puller, jaws a little too wide, slipped and cocked to one side cutting/scraping off a bit of the "tit" on one side that was a little small to begin with. Second attempt same procedure even less likely to work.

Why not MacGyver the thing? Leave nut a little loose (cotter pinned of course) and let the violent shaking on braking knock the tapered joint loose. Sometimes feels like the whole front suspension wants to fall off anyway.

How much play/free space should be left between the ball joint nut, and the shoulder of the idler arm bore? How much shaking/braking? Anyone done this and lived to tell about it?

[Dave M]

If you've only tried the puller once, don't give up. My crappy little generic puller has done a lot of jobs with a try, try again attitude, include the idler arm. Get a $5 C-clamp to hold the arms on there and then slowly start turning the sucker while watching for any twisting etc. Get another hand in there if you have to. Again, don't recall what model we're dealing with and whether space is a bigger issue than with my M50, but you might want to give it another shot.

Here is a photo of the puller I used. For the idler I only used two opposing arms with the C-clamp on em. If it can do thrust arms, it can do a idler arm.


Dave

[Dave M]

Oh, and I have no idea whether driving with the nut off would do any good, or be a wise move.

[markus]

i hear a draper separator works wonders.

[Gene in NC]

Dave, that looks like a bearing or gear puller in your pic. Now I understand why you used a c-clamp.

Markus, what the heck is a draper separator?

[Chris'91'525i]

If you've only tried the puller once, don't give up. My crappy little generic puller has done a lot of jobs with a try, try again attitude, include the idler arm. Get a $5 C-clamp to hold the arms on there and then slowly start turning the sucker while watching for any twisting etc. Get another hand in there if you have to. Again, don't recall what model we're dealing with and whether space is a bigger issue than with my M50, but you might want to give it another shot.

A big hose clamp work good for holding the jaws on the part, while torquing down on the puller.
It acts like have a spare set of (expendable)hands to hold it on the part.

[Evan]

Gene, you can get the idler loose like that but don't do it that way. If you lose steering at the wrong moment you could get injured.. or worse.

Do you have access to air tools? An air hammer will do you right.

[Ross]

It won't come loose that way. Knock the fukr with a pickle fork and be done with it.

[bsell]

Oh, and I have no idea whether driving with the nut off would do any good, or be a wise move.

Have you ever gotten the nut stuck on the shaft due to swelling the end like a mushroom from too much force (puller tight as snot)? Not a fun thing I can tell you...

And yes, the hammer was in the tool box the whole time!

[indierthanthou]

It will come loose, but you will run off the road and die in a giant fireball of glory. You might even make the 10 o'clock news!


....in short don't do it.