:: Definitive e34 HID FAQ

[Qube]

This guide is not intended to tell you about HIDs or go over the good and the bad. If you're here, you have already made that decision and want to know about HID applications SPECIFICALLY for the e34. This will be a FAQ for HIDs in the e34 and nothing more. If you're not at this point yet, review web resources like:

http://orca.st.usm.edu/~jmneal/tiburon/hids.htm

So, let's get started!

- Qube


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1. ++ The kit has separate ballast and ignitor?

In theory, kits with the ignitor integrated into the ballast are better, but simply because it's one less thing to find a place for under the hood. Most kits now have the ignitor and ballast integrated so this point is moot.

<examples will go here>

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2. ++ What kit should I buy?

Again, this is a personal choice. There are a lot of 'less well made' kits coming from China. Avoid those where possible. Look for kits made in Korea, Hong Kong, or Germany. While not a certain thing, my experience has shown me that the quality control is much, MUCH higher in the latter.

There are some that say you should get genuine Philips OEM ballasts and/or bulbs. Again, it's a personal choice. They may be better overall, but this still is a retrofit application (eg, not originally designed use). If you can justify the cost, go for it. Does it make that much a difference? If you follow the guide above (eg, non-made-in-China) then you should be fine.

Personal favorites: Decante, Kaixen, CEBT.

Recommended by others: RIMSA (shogun)

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3. ++ What color / temperature / brightness should I buy?

This is an e34 guide. If you want to know what temperature means in this context, search on the web. Really, it's a personal choice.
However, I do not recommend anything higher than 6500k. Bigger the number, the more blue/purple the actual color is at the expense of actual light output. Make sense? No? Search. Just don't go higher than 6500k.

Remember, you want the light to be WHITE. The blue/purple 'fringe' will come from the cutoff mask in the projector headlights. You do NOT want your actual beam to be blue... just the cutoff mark.

<examples will go here>

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4. ++ Can I install HIDs in my car?

Yes. HOWEVER! If you have FREEFORM headlights, PLEASE don't do it. For us, that means your low beam must have a lens inside like this:

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...ht_picture.jpg

See that 'fisheye' round type lens in the middle or the right lamp? That's the projector lens. See the highbeam lamp on the left? It's freeform... simple?

The projector ensure that the light cuts off cleanly and doesn't glare other drivers. Ever seen an oncoming driver with their highbeams on?
Yeah, that's what it would be like if you put HIDs in freeforms, except 100x worse.

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5. ++ "Low beam warning" or other warning about dipped beam out after install?

If you install HIDs and they work but you get the OBC warning about dipped or low beam out, it means you have a crappy ballast Most
new kits now eliminate this issue by instituting some sort of resistor to fool the computer. If you get this warning and don't want to get a new kit, you can wire a small bulb in parallel or bypass and install a relay.

How does a ballast work anyway?
http://powerelectronics.com/mag/610PET22.pdf

<more information to come on this issue, insert links>

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6. ++ The lamp flickered and doesn't turn on anymore, huh?

Most likely you've blown a fuse. Check the fuses for the low beams. The HIDs draw more startup current than halogens. Change them from 7.5/10a to 15a. Although the aged wiring on my 88 build 535 holds up nicely, keep an eye on your stock wiring harness to ensure it doesn't have issues like getting overly hot after this.

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7. ++ My HID kit doesn't work. Wired both of them up but they don't light! - Dave M

Assuming you have checked the fuse, you most likely reversed the polarity. The way BMW wiRoyalBlue up this (and other cars?) is strange whereby it's a positive ground (correct terminology?). That's why LEDs and whatnot won't work out of the box... the wiring needs to be flipped.
Change the connection (polarity) from stock wiring to the ballast and try again.

If this is done and they don't light, get someone to flip the lights while you watch the projector. Do you see a flicker of light when switched on? This will tell you if they tried to ignite. Standard troubleshooting applies if there is no flicker... like is power getting to the factory harness? Under NO circumstance should you check for power from bulb to ballast! 15000+ volts pass through there and it would be unpleasant to say the least if you tried to 'voltmeter' that connection!

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8. ++ So I need projectors. Which ones should I buy?

The common options are:
- North American projectors (OEM)
- Euro Smiley projectors
- Depo Halo / Angel eye projectors
- Other Halo / Angel eye projectors

Search and you'll have great discussions about relative quality. In a nutshell, if you want OEM look and hate halos, get the Euro Emiley. If you want a suble halo effect, get the Depo halo projectors. Believe me, I've done enough testing to know. All other halo projectors use larger 194 bulbs which hotspot and give a thick ring. The Depos use 74 bulbs which are smaller and accomodate the smaller halo ring. In most opinions, this is a much nicer and brighter (!) look.

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9. ++ What's this 'cutoff' I keep hearing about?

There are two types of cutoffs.

The usual 'North American' type: http://www.houseofthud.com/cartech/hids/tn_DSCN9732_jpg
...and the 'Euro' type: http://www.houseofthud.com/cartech/hids/tn_DSCN9722_jpg

Which is better? It's a personal opinion, really. Most aftermarket ones are 'Euro' type. Furthermore, the 'Euro' type can be easily switched for RHD and LHD cars... just rotate the lens either way. Think about it a moment and you'll see Most 'Euro' types accomodate with this feature.

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10. ++ I swapped Euro projectors in but I didn't save the US connectors. I heard I need them to hook the HID's up. True? - Antrieb

Not necessarily. Common bulb types are 9006 and H1 for low beam on our car. The wiring is simply:

Car wiring harness --> Ballast / Ignitor --> Bulb

For 9006 bulb cars, just buy the 9006 kit and it will interface directly with the OEM 9006 connector. Done. This is usually the case for North American cars.

It gets trickier when you have an NA car but you buy retrofit headlamps like Euro Smilies. So now you need an H1 bulb, but have 9006 OE connector. What to do?

You need to make a choice. Are you EVER going to go back to NA type lights? That is, will you EVER need to go back to the 9006 type bulb? Probably not. If that's the case, simply cut off the OEM connector and put the appropriate spade connector on the end.

The next wrinkle is the aftermarket lights come with a 'strange' Euro connector. Same thing applies. You CAN buy a wiring kit but it's not needed. Just cut the connector off and put a spade connector on. Make sense?

There was another thread whereby someone glued (?) spade connectors directly onto the pins on the aftermarket connector but I can't find it yet...

FURTHER READING:
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...ighlight=spade

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11. ++ Where is the best place to install the ballasts? - shanek

535 - There is a space just in front of the struts perfect for the ballast. it's usually where the color code nameplate is on the right hand side. For the left hand side, I put it on the side of the washer fluid container. To affix them, I use dabs of high temp silicon. This makes it hold very well, yet still cleanly removable.

520 - <answer needed>
525 - <answer needed>
530 - <answer needed>
540 - <answer needed>
M5 - <answer needed>

Excellent link from Shogun: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355779

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12. ++ What all is needed to piece together a kit from OEM parts? - shanek

<answer needed>

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13. ++ Should I put HIDs in my high beams and fogs as well? - Paul in NZ

If you have projectors in your fogs, you can do so. HOWEVER, since they are angled more sharply to the ground, it may theoretically produce more backscatter in wet weather. I personally use 3000k HIDs in my Depo Crystal fogs. For high beams, you should almost NEVER put them in. The reasoning is that HIDs require a warmup time and it is extremely bad for the bulbs to be cycled on and off quickly... the salts need to cool before igniting again. So this means if you need to 'flash' your high beams, it will either not work and cause an error on your OBC, or produce a weak glow. So in recap... Fogs... at your own discretion. High beams... no.

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14. ++ Where can I buy the connectors when installing the Euro Smiley's for the bulbs so I dont need to splice? - 95///M3

I just did the conversion on my E34 ///M5 a few weeks ago. The light output is OUTSTANDING over the US non-ellipsoids I used to have... Searchg the archives for euro ellipsoids, or check out my recent posts in the member section to see what I did.

To make wiring easier, I ordered factory Euro plugs from BMA. All together it was about $40 including shipping, but honestly it was well worth it for a clean installation. Here are the part #'s you'll need:

(02) 61 13 1 378 403 yellow plug connectors for high beams
(02) 61 13 1 378 401 white plug connectors for low beams
(02) 61 13 1 378 402 grey plug connectors for city lights
(12) 61 13 0 007 442 cable socket (wires with sockets that fit inside plug connectors.

The numbers in parenthesis indicate how many you will need (basically 2 connectors for L and R, along with 2 cable sockets per connector). Use your Bentley, Haynes, Chilton's to source wire colors, or just whip out a multimeter and play with the lights. The lights take H1 55w in all four of the lights, along with 1 5w 12v wedge bulb (picked up at radio shack) for the city lights. I linked the city lights to my parking light, and have been very happy with the results. Good luck!

REFERENCE: riseosiris @ bimmerforums

[Qube]

PLACEHOLDER for future overflow.

Any questions?

[Antrieb]

What is the best kit you can buy?

I swapped Euro projectors in but I didn't save the US connectors. I heard I need them to hook the HID's up. True?

[Qube]

What is the best kit you can buy?

I swapped Euro projectors in but I didn't save the US connectors. I heard I need them to hook the HID's up. True?

Answered. First one is in FAQ. Second one added. Thanks.

[Fetch]

This looks like it's going to be great, subscribed!!

[Dave M]

I want credit for my question . Thanks again, for the help, I suppose i could have waited another day.

Dave

[shanek]

Where is the best place to install the ballasts? What all is needed to piece together a kit from OEM parts? Is one generation ballast better than another?

This is excellent Qube! Thanks!

[shogun]

I cannot agree with the statement aboove about the chinese made ones in general. Here in Japan the brand name RIMSA is a hit among E34/32 and E31 drivers. Cheap and durable.
RIMSA factory is certified according to ISO 9001.


The seller here guarantees to supply spare bulbs and ballasts etc in case of trouble.
Usually for H1 HID the auction price is around 100-120 $ per set plus shipping.

AND, no alarm in the check control. Some members of our E32 Club have them installed and they are very happy with them. Here a #2 750 with 6.500K bulbs, 1 pic from outside, one from inside the car thru darkened windshield.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/347775
And here the auction
http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g56115773
Today I am going to offer again on one set for a friend.

[Qube]

I concur, Shogun, but the problem is there are TOO MANY poorly made ones out of China to recommend. Not many have time or patience to go through as many HID kits and lights as I have. The ratio of poor kits out of China versus good is extremely high. Moreover, almost all the kits (9) I have tried made in China bear 9001 certification claims... one even has 9002 (yeah, lol).

So, while there may be exceptions, the general rule stands. What I will do though is add your recommendation in the FAQ so at least we know that this type is ok in more than one installation

Thanks very much for the comprehensive reply btw!

I cannot agree with the statement aboove about the chinese made ones in general. Here in Japan the brand name RIMSA is a hit among E34/32 and E31 drivers. Cheap and durable.
RIMSA factory is certified according to ISO 9001.

The seller here guarantees to supply spare bulbs and ballasts etc in case of trouble.
Usually for H1 HID the auction price is around 100-120 $ per set plus shipping.

AND, no alarm in the check control. Some members of our E32 Club have them installed and they are very happy with them. Here a #2 750 with 6.500K bulbs, 1 pic from outside, one from inside the car thru darkened windshield.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/347775
And here the auction
http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g56115773
Today I am going to offer again on one set for a friend.

[Paul in NZ]

shogun is that just the low beam HIDs fitted?!