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Thread: Leaking auto trans for 535i

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default Leaking auto trans for 535i

    I have a few drops on the garage floor every few days. Its ATF.

    Bruno has a writeup here, I'm thinking this is my problem.

    http://bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenanc...utput_seal.htm

    And I'm assuming it's part number 9. Thanks Boom and Zoom!
    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...44&hg=24&fg=15

    Has anyone here done this job before? Any tips you could give me or does Bruno's site cover it fine?

    EDIT: I don't have a gear puller to remove the flange from the shaft. Can I get it off some other way. I have no idea guys. I haven't done this before. Can I knock part 10 off with a hammer?
    Last edited by BigKriss; 04-23-2007 at 07:53 AM.

  2. #2
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    May 2004
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    Default

    bump

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default

    I've replaced the output seal and found that the hardest part is getting the exhaust out of the way. I didn't have to use a puller to get the output flange out of the transmission. It wiggled out pretty easily. Getting the new seal in place is a bit of a chore because it must be straight. I would suggest buying an extra seal in case you screw up the first time around. Gale has a write up for replacement here:
    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_23.htm
    Here is a thread I started when I was doing my replacement:
    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=24594

    My biggest problem was finding a socket that would work on the output flange nut. Also, when you order parts, get the locking metal insert for the nut. You will likely destroy the original when taking it out. HTH

  4. #4
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    May 2004
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    Default

    Thanks very much for your comments Rus, so while I'm ordering parts, what else should I purchase, eg what one is the "locking metal insert"?

    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...44&hg=24&fg=15

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default



    When I changed my seal, I purchased parts 9 (two of these), and one 12. 12 is the metal piece that is pressed into the flange around the nut. It prevents the nut from coming undone. 9 is the actual seal (of which I got two in case I effed up ). Also, I believe Gale mentions this in his write-up, but it is probably a good idea to polish up the flange with some soft polish. I used a mag wheel polish on mine. When I was done it looked brand new. Polishing the area where the seal contacts the flange is best done in motions parallel to the rotation of the flange so as to avoid creating surface imperfections that would wear down the seal. Don't forget to use some sealant where the repair manual calls for it (I applied some to the inner grooves and under the nut). When you are done, you can install the metal locking piece into the flange by placing it in the flange and then using your socket to lightly tap it in.

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