removing the exhaust manifold

[BigKriss]

do I have to have the car on jackstands to remove the exhaust manifold. the car is stuck in my garage now and is going nowhere. time to remove the cylinder head. Its going to be almost impossible to get underneath the car without the jackstands there. the car is too low.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

the manifold to downpipe bolts from the bottom.

If you try to pull the manifolds off the head, you'll still have to go under to loosen up the hangers to swing the manifold and pipes back.

[BigKriss]

i thought so - thanks bob

[winfred]

the best way i've found to not break the studs if you have the long ones with the springs is after you hit them with your favorite lube spray, tighten them 1/2 1 turn before loosening them

[indierthanthou]

Will that work with any studs/bolts whatever that are rusted pretty good, or just the manifold ones? Screw it im writing it down anyway, thats a dang good idea. Oh Great Winfred, how do you acquire such wisdom? Instruct me in your ways!

[winfred]

just the ones with the springs on the m30s otherwise douse them with a good penetrating oil like pb blaster or kroil, uhhhhh..... from doing this **** in a daily basis for the last 10 years

Will that work with any studs/bolts whatever that are rusted pretty good, or just the manifold ones? Screw it im writing it down anyway, thats a dang good idea. Oh Great Winfred, how do you acquire such wisdom? Instruct me in your ways!

[BigKriss]

thanks for your help Winfred. I bought new studs on the downpipes just in case also. I'll put the car on some ramps at the front.

[genphreak]

do I have to have the car on jackstands to remove the exhaust manifold. the car is stuck in my garage now and is going nowhere. time to remove the cylinder head. Its going to be almost impossible to get underneath the car without the jackstands there. the car is too low.

You won't need them bro, they are stainless and we don't have salt on the roads. Mine look like new plus a little heat colouring. The thing you must be careful about is the springs- tighten them too much and they (under heat and too much pressure) lose their spring and you have to buy new ones- and they are very expensive form BMW Australia. I just buy new nuts- I read that the little copper ones are best replaced each time, else they fall off. I don't think you need to use anti-seize on the new ones, but i still do. Nick

[winfred]

i never replace the nuts and usually antiseize them, the only spring problems i encounter is the occaisional broken one

[Bellicose Right Winger]

I think it's easier to pull the head with exhaust manifolds on.

A few tricks to disconnect head pipe I learned thru the years
-6 point socket only
-Propane torch to heat nut ONLY. Keep flame off stud. This expands nut and breaks rust bond between nut and stud.
-Tighten first per Winfred
-Repeat heat if it's still stuck
-Apply lube after nut is loosened
-Reassemble with copper paste
-Tighten fully to compress spring and back nut off 1-1/2 turns

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...productID=3316

Paul Shovestul