Got to replace radiator and condensor...anything else? (and A/C ques.)

[Wes F]

Ok, so I'm gonna order some parts from BMA, and wondering what I should get now that I've got some things to do.

I've gotta replace the radiator cause on my last flush a couple months ago, I had to replace the upper rad hose and upon removal I realized that the plastic neck on the rad was snapped (aargh). I tried to mickey-mouse the new hose on utilizing what was left of the neck, and it holds...for now. It's slooowly oozing out and will probably blow anytime. So because that plastic crap neck is part of the whole shebang, new radiator is in order.

Also, I did some A/C work a bit ago. Found that I had a leak at the low press hose from evap to compressor, and also a trace amount around the expan valve. Replaced those, buttoned it all up, evac and recharge and came out ok. 2 months later suddenly blows warm again (damnit). Now it seems it has got some holes in the condensor and again trace amounts around the evap area.

I know, I should've replaced the evap when I was right there replacing the expan valve, but my cheap ass wanted to save a few bucks...oh well, gotta tackle the thing again.

Ok, so here's some questions:

1. Do I have to replace the drier? I know that everytime you open the system you should, but I put a new one in only a couple months ago.

2. Should I replace all the other a/c hoses just in case (comp-cond, cond-drier, drier-evap)? They seem to be holding now, but who knows, maybe a few more months of pressurizing an 18 year old system might take its toll?

3. Since I'll have the rad and condensor out, should I replace anything else? I'm thinking at least all the belts. The water pump was replaced about 7 years ago, the thermostat about 4.

The cooling system works great, she holds dead center even in 90 degree-heated traffic, I just need to replace that damn radiator cause of that broken neck.

Thanks a lot for your help all, this forum is priceless! Don't listen to that douche that was bitching earlier, I've accomplished more than I can say with the help of the people on this forum!

Aloha,
Wes

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

a while back I had the same piece meal type experience.

I put in a new compressor and drier, just to have the condenser fail within a few months.

I kept the system pressurized until I could replace the condenser.

Then I evac'd the system, quickly popped on the new condenser, and evac'd again, charged it up and all is cool.

as long as your system kept under pressure and is not open to the air for too long during the repair, then I'd chance it and not replace the new drier.

[Phatty5BMW]

Is your guy's a/c converted? My a/c quit last summer worked one minute then poof no a/c. I haven't tackled anything yet i.e. leaks but that a/c retro kit I see everywhere looks too intimidating

Pat

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

the kit is just a couple of fittings and O rings.

It's best done with a new drier and fresh oil in the compressor.

I think Wes held on to the r12

[Phatty5BMW]

Yea that why I asked. I haven't tried to refill mine with 134 because I saw on a post that it can gum up or w/e. The kit I saw the the bay had like 30 o-rings and alot of misc. I have worked on everything else but a/c.....

Pat

[Wes F]

a while back I had the same piece meal type experience.

I put in a new compressor and drier, just to have the condenser fail within a few months.

I kept the system pressurized until I could replace the condenser.

Then I evac'd the system, quickly popped on the new condenser, and evac'd again, charged it up and all is cool.

as long as your system kept under pressure and is not open to the air for too long during the repair, then I'd chance it and not replace the new drier.

Thanks for the reply Bob. Yeah, I figured I might not be the only one. Problem with me is that the system has such big holes now that it won't stay charged more than a week. Looks like I might need a new drier now...so you think I should probably change the lines and evap too?

I think Wes held on to the r12

Yeah, I kept it 'cause I didn't want to go through the hassle of changing over, since I can still get r12 pretty cheap - just bought a 30 lb keg for less than $15 a pound. Not bad I guess for having a gas with superior cooling qualities than 134.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

[it shouldn't be to bad...I'd hate to pay a shop on an exchanger R&R $$$$$.

I never noticed that much of a cooling differance between r12 & r134.

[Wes F]

Bumpin this cause I'm gonna pick up parts from BMA on Monday - should I go ahead and replace the water pump and thermostat and stuff along with the rad? Water pump has about 7 years/40k miles on it, thermostat is about 2 years/8k on it. Thing is everything works fine (for now), car runs nice and cool and doesn't overheat at all. The only reason I'm replacing the radiator is cause of the broken upper neck from last flush (thing's holding for now, but probably not for long).

So go ahead and replace 'em to be safe, or do the 'ol "don't fix 'em unless it stay broke!" ? What say you?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

is a time bomb,

At the very least I'd replace to rad and flush it.

[Evan]

replace all the o-rings, gaskets, and everything to which you'll have access... i did my pcv, intake, water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, and all associated gaskets, including injector o-rings, accumulator o-rings, etc... parts cost me about $250

I left the fan off and am using lower temp fan clutch and tstat