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Thread: pulling rocker shafts on M30

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    121

    Default pulling rocker shafts on M30

    Hey guys
    Is is possible to pull the rocker shafts out of an M30 E34 without pulling the head? i.e. removing radiator etc.

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    835

    Default

    Not the rear shafts; firewall is in the way. Honestly, I don't think the front shafts will clear the radiator & core support, but there might be enough wiggle room to get the rockers out for #3.

    Did we have an occassion to rev too much? How 'bout some pictures & specs on that turbo setup?
    erased due to slander

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    121

    Default

    Cheers,
    Had a feeling it would not work.

    Its carnage under the rocker cover, both arms on #4 have broken, makes me very concerned that 2 arms on one cyl have gone. Was not revving hard, just pulling 5,000 rpm when it started running on 5.

    Head off time.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beetos
    Cheers,
    Had a feeling it would not work.

    Its carnage under the rocker cover, both arms on #4 have broken, makes me very concerned that 2 arms on one cyl have gone. Was not revving hard, just pulling 5,000 rpm when it started running on 5.

    Head off time.....
    I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing.

    I THINK you can get to the fronts if you can tip the engine up (disconnect drive shaft and mounts) and perhaps remove the radiator. Have to look to be sure, but I'm pretty sure you don't have to do as Bently's says and pull the whole dang cam shaft. I pulled the head to check the valves (got a broken exhaust rocker on cyl#2). Looks like you can position the cam at the right spot, slide the rocker arms to the side and get enough slack to free the rocker arm.

    Oops - I see you're concerned about #4 though, so no dice there. Remember to mark the location of your cam gear teeth WRT the head with the crank at TDC before taking the chain off. The chain can slip teeth on the crankshaft end, when the tension is out, so even if you're really careful not to move anything it can still accidentally slip and be off. Don't ask me how I found that out...
    Last edited by Robin-535im; 02-16-2007 at 01:42 PM.
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    Guys, the head has to be pulled. The rocker shafts are keyed in to the head bolt holes.

    Without removing the head bolts, you can't remove the shafts.

    The other issue is that the valves have to be compressed to pull tension off of the shaft and the cam shaft to do any kind of mild head work, and the valves can't be compressed enough with the pistons in the way.

    And the rocker shafts are specific to each corner, so be sure you keep track of what comes out where.
    Last edited by Kalevera; 02-16-2007 at 01:49 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Roger that......

    thanks for the valuable feedback.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,171

    Default

    I have had the head off my M-30 for reconditioning. As mentioned...another affirmation that the head has to come off to remove the rocker shafts...rear shafts in particular. I didn't pull the rocker shafts off but as mentioned, don't think you have to pull the cam to pull the rockers. Reason is...as mentioned, all you do is walk the rocker shaft...the one you need to get at your broken rocker...by pulling the shaft out by rotating the cam off the particular valve starting with most inboard valve...in back that would be cylinder #4...pull rocker shaft...cylinder #5 off lobe...walk the rocker shaft...cyl#6 etc until the rocker shaft is free.

    Lastly, you don't have to be concerned about the position of either the cam shaft or the crankshaft once the head is removed contrary to what was written above. I rotated both crank and camshaft quite a bit when I had mine apart for cleaning and adjusting the valves prior to setting the head back on. But before you set the head back on, be sure to have no.1 cylinder at top dead center and the camshaft sprocket hole at 7 o'clock. To ensure you are not off a tooth...make sure when you have this orientation that all slack is out of the driver side of the timing chain. This is a common mistake and therefore easy to degree the cam a tooth off. Timing chain a rope on the driver side...engine at TDC for no.1 and cam sprocket hole at 7 o'clock and you are good.
    HTH,
    George
    Kind of miss the old girl car...engine after rebuild:



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Wow, that is one clean motor. Looks amazing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by beetos
    Wow, that is one clean motor. Looks amazing.
    Thanks. Gotta love the big six...a marvelously simple motor.
    Your car looks like fun!
    Cheers,
    George

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Thanks George, its a love hate thing at the moment and it costing me a small fortune, but fun is one thing its got in spades. Looking forward to getting her going again once the broken rockers are put right.

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