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Thread: Need some assistance in determining what needs replacing in my front end.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tarrytown, NY
    Posts
    186

    Default Need some assistance in determining what needs replacing in my front end.

    Ok, I KNOW there's TONS of threads out there discussing the front end ad nauseum. What I haven't really seen though, is a discussion of what needs to be replaced first. Or rather what the typical wear is like on a front end, assuming it all started in the same condition.

    I started thinking about this from the perspective that I wanted to just replace all of the stuff in the front end that could need replacing. That said, I'm not sure if it all needs replacing, and don't know enough about my car to check it and determine what needs replacing. I do have the 50-60mph shimmy, so I'm pretty certain my thrust arms with 750i bushings will be going in as a minimum. But overall this philosophy though it makes for a nice riding car, can get to be cost prohibitive.. Not to mention that I want to get the brakes done too.
    What I have so far identified in the front end is:

    Lemforder Right Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-098)
    Lemforder Left Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-097)
    Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-992)
    Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-991)
    Sway bar link Lemforder (31-35-1-134-582)
    Idler arm (32-21-1-136-450)
    Center track rod/tie rod (32-21-1-138-854)
    Steering Link - Tie rod assemblies (32-21-1-135-666)

    That all comes out to US$630 from the various sources.. but I don't know for example if the Idler arm is a common wear item... or if I'm better off leaving it alone and waiting for other more severe symptoms to point me in the direction of replacing it - same goes for the other parts there.

    I'm also planning on doing the Guibo and center bearing:
    Flex Disc - 6 Hole 135mm Part # : 26 11 1 209 168
    Drive Shaft Center Bearing Part # : 26 12 1 226 723

    Those are given as I have a lot of drivetrain slop when taking off, etc. Also looking to pickup Bruno's rear subframe delrin inserts. Just because they are so cheap and seem to provide a nice improvement.

    Also, similarly I've got a laundry list of brake items to replace, but I don't know if some of these items are really necessary.
    Here's my list:
    Disc holddown bolt (34-11-1-123-072)
    FRONT brake Rotors (34-11-1-160-936)
    Brake pads Front (34-11-1-162-535)
    ATE SuperBlue Brake Fluid - 1 Liter
    REAR brake Rotors (34-21-1-162-305)
    Brake pads Rear (34-21-1-162-536)
    Brake sensor (34-35-1-179-820)
    Brake Hose/Line; Rear Inner Left/Right;; 222mm FxF Connections
    Brake Hose/Line; Rear Outer Left/Right; 200mm MxF Connection
    Brake Hose/Line; Front
    OR Teflon Coated Stainless Steel Braided Brake -6 line kit in place of three lines above.
    Caliper Bushing Kit
    Caliper Rebuild Kit - Front
    Caliper Rebuild Kit - Rear

    The pads/rotors are pretty straightforward although I'm torn between Jurid pads or Mintex low dust pads.. But I see bavauto has the caliper bushing kit that seems like it could help with brake feel - but not sure how likely it is that it needs it.. likewise with the caliper rebuild kits. Those aren't really discussed on bmwe34.net. Also, how to tell if my brake lines need replacing - are the stainless braided lines worth the extra money? Also, is the pad sensor a wear item? Or do you only need to buy a new one if it's missing or broken/damaged?


    Overall Bruno has some good info on his site, but It's not as complete as I'd like.. (yes, I'm dense, and overwhelmed with all of the info thrown at me)

    I've got some money coming back from the fed for my taxes - and I'd like to earmark some of it for the E34.. but the wife won't let me earmark more than $7-800 for parts. My initial though is that I should be able to do a lot with that, doing the work myself. But it's not quite enough to do the all out "replace it all" method, so I need to be deliberate and smart about what I do and don't do. Any thoughts you guys have, or maybe good resources I can turn to.. .let me know.

    Thanks
    1990 535i - 5 spd - Red on black - LSD
    Mods: EAT chip, Sachs Sports Kit, Racing King Subframe Inserts, staggered M-Parallels (replicas) with BFGoodrich g-Force Sports.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    bay city michigan
    Posts
    246

    Default

    I had my front end gone through and it made a big difference. I replaced struts bushings idler arm pitman arms sway bar links motor and trany mounts. One thing you could save money on is having thrust busings and lower control arm bushings pressed in. I didn't see then need to replace the metal. That can save you some bucks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tarrytown, NY
    Posts
    186

    Default

    So just one response in almost a week?
    1990 535i - 5 spd - Red on black - LSD
    Mods: EAT chip, Sachs Sports Kit, Racing King Subframe Inserts, staggered M-Parallels (replicas) with BFGoodrich g-Force Sports.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    lol...ad nausium? Why dont you get the thing on a lift and see if you need all that steering stuff? The thrust arms are a given though, I replaced the whole front end but the idler was okay so I left that one in there. Whatever you do dont get cheap parts unles your a big fan of redoing it all in a few months time.

    Quote Originally Posted by rreimund
    So just one response in almost a week?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    NEPA
    Posts
    936

    Default

    seems liek the more new parts you put in they rectify the bad ones LOL. i need 2 front wheel bearings but the rest of my suspension has less than 4k on it. New shocks, springs, upper and lower control arms with bushings, idler arm, center link and tierods. car handles and drives very nice now. also new tranny and engine mounts.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tarrytown, NY
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Wow.. sorry to bring this one back from the dead.. I had never seen some of these responses.. I've actually not done any of this work yet since I barely drove the car. I'm not traveling a lot for work right now, sometimes flying out of town all week, other times driving down to Philly from NY for day or two at a time. So I'm at the point now that I need to get it fixed for my drives, and at the same time, I don't have the time to do it myself.

    I've got a buddy who is going to do it at his shop, but he's really busy and just getting it in to him will take me 2-3 weeks. I would hate to have him open it all up and find it needs this part or that part and then have the car sit and wait while they come in. So I wanted to have everything he'd need purchased and in the trunk so all he had to do was install it all.

    I guess my main question, specific to the front end now, since that's what I'm looking to get done first. Are there any of the parts I list below NOT wear items. In other words, are there some parts there that unless your car has been hit, there's never really a need to replace them? If not, and if all of those items can at some point wear to the point of needing replacing - then I'll just go ahead and replace it all. The car has 136k miles or so, so I figure it's going to wear, then it should be nearly about time to replace them. (Yes, I'm assuming the previous owner didn't)
    these items are:

    Lemforder Right Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-098)
    Lemforder Left Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-097)
    Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-992)
    Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-991)
    Sway bar link Lemforder (31-35-1-134-582)
    Idler arm (32-21-1-136-450)
    Center track rod/tie rod (32-21-1-138-854)
    Steering Link - Tie rod assemblies (32-21-1-135-666)

    Anything I missed? Is there any hardware required to do the work (like bolts/nuts or whatever that can't be reused? - assuming you don't break anything)


    Thanks, (And sorry for my long ass posts..)
    - Rick



    PS. Jeff: I don't have a lift and wouldn't know if it needed to be replaced even if I did.. Only reason I know the thrust arms are shot is 'cause the 55mph shimmy is pretty obvious. :-D
    1990 535i - 5 spd - Red on black - LSD
    Mods: EAT chip, Sachs Sports Kit, Racing King Subframe Inserts, staggered M-Parallels (replicas) with BFGoodrich g-Force Sports.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Default

    Don't forget to throw these by BMA and see what they can do in price
    :: HIDCanada.com | Illuminating Your World


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tarrytown, NY
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    Default

    I had priced them out on their site, and then at autohausaz.com

    Autohaus was way cheaper - and free shipping to boot.. But definitely worth a shot once I figure out what all I'll need to order up.

    -Rick

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    3,105

    Default try the BMA discount code

    spece30

    and if you call BMA and compare prices they usually match or beat the prices and shipping.

    Make sure Autohauz is sending lemforder stuff, when I did my fornt end in February they didn't have all the stuff, so I went with BMA, they even matched tirerack's prices on a set of Eibach springs.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  10. #10
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    Default

    +1. Email them or give them a call for the 'bimmer.info' price. They take care of you.
    :: HIDCanada.com | Illuminating Your World


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