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Thread: Quick and dirty notes on flushing the E34 brakes without removing the wheels

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    West Palm Beach, South Florida
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    Default Quick and dirty notes on flushing the E34 brakes without removing the wheels

    I just took some time in the afternoon to flush the brakes on my 525i, still trying to prep it for the track while Im waiting for the transmission to be delivered. Anyway, brake fluid was at least 5 years old and most HDPEvents want it less than 3 months old, so I changed it.

    Now, I have a Motive power brake bleeder, which makes all of this MUCH easier and simpler. I also have ramps and a floor jack, so without these three things, I'm not sure this method will work well for you, but hey, the advice is free.

    1. Roll car backwards up onto ramps (use the ramps on the rear wheels).
    2. Jack up the front end of the car, place on jack stands (while leaving the rears on the ramps.) You should be able to get to all the bleed screws from underneath the car with the wheels on in this config.
    3. Setup the motive brake bleeder on the master cyl resivoir, pressurize to about 10-15 psi.
    4. Start bleeding from the right rear until clear fluid comes out, then left rear, then right front, then left front (at least thats the order I did them in.)
    5. Drop front, remove brake bleeder, roll car off ramps. Done in 20 mins!

    Anyway, there are a million different ways to bleed a set of brakes, I just wanted to offer an easy way to do it using the tools most weekend mechanics have. Sorry, no pics.
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    235

    Default

    So what brake fluid did you use Dan?
    I use Ate Typ 200 (Amber) and Ate Super Blue (around $9.00 a litre) in both my E34 and my R1150RT.
    Ate has higher wet/dry boiling points than stock DoT4 and you can alternate the different types so that when you flush, the new color makes it easy to know when the old stuff is out.
    "Uncle" Phil C
    2011 Kia Optima EX-P.
    Former owner of a 95 525i 5spd. "The GQ" aka A Shark in sheeps clothing
    03 R1150RT 6spd. "DaRTth"
    00 R1100R 5spd. "LeRoy"

  3. #3
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    Default

    I used the Valvoline SynPower stuff off the shelf at advance auto or autozone. It was $6.00 a litre, so not any significant price difference.

    I thought about the superblue stuff, but I opted for the Valvoline because I could pick it up in the store the day I was working on it. That, and NASA tech inspections for HDPE's call for the brakes to be flushed within 30 days, so if I'll have to be flushing it out again by the next track event (after the one coming up) anyway.

    I like the idea of switching between the blue and the gold though, I think I'm gonna order a batch of each and keep the garage stocked with that.
    Last edited by DanDombrowski; 01-08-2007 at 08:19 AM.
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    USA
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    Default

    two words

    SPEED BLEEDERS!

    i did the front brakes in less than 15mins without even jacking the car or turning it on!

    while laying on the floor, from underneath the bumber, unscew bleeder 1/4 turn, put on catch bottle, push down brake pedal 20 times while adding fluid when the reservoir is low.

    repeat.

    if you are racing and you do not have brake ducts, i suggest changing to a fluid with higher dry boiling point. dont even look at AP racing fluids. ate is significantly cheaper than the only other real DOT5.1 fluid out there, which is Mutol RBF600. Mutol is 3 times the price, but has a boiling point of 590F. ATE is 530F

    for non racing applications (or in my mind, non bmw applications) synpower is an extreme value when changed regularly.

    some volvo guys made a chart of the various fluids and their dollar value per ounce per degree!

    http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default

    Yeah, the speed bleeder made it a whole lot easier than previous brake bleeds. It pays for itself on the first use. No need to pump the pedal either, which is especially good since my "help" wanders off when they're not tied down.

    Anyway, I had a slight correction to my above post, I meant to say that there wasn't a significant difference in the price between the valvoline and the ATE superblue (although I guess it is a 50% difference, its still only $3.00).

    As far as the temps, yes, I will probably move up to a higher BP fluid on my next swap. I want my first run in this car to be completely stock, and then I will work my way up and see how much different changes matter on the track. I think after my first event I will be moving to the ATE fluid and a set of Hawk HP+ pads or a similar track compound and see how much I improve.

    Thanks for the tips. I've seen that volvo chart before - I check the volvo boards once in awhile when I need to do work on the 240.
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

  6. #6
    TC535i Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BillionPa
    two words

    SPEED BLEEDERS!

    i did the front brakes in less than 15mins without even jacking the car or turning it on!

    while laying on the floor, from underneath the bumber, unscew bleeder 1/4 turn, put on catch bottle, push down brake pedal 20 times while adding fluid when the reservoir is low.

    repeat.

    if you are racing and you do not have brake ducts, i suggest changing to a fluid with higher dry boiling point. dont even look at AP racing fluids. ate is significantly cheaper than the only other real DOT5.1 fluid out there, which is Mutol RBF600. Mutol is 3 times the price, but has a boiling point of 590F. ATE is 530F

    for non racing applications (or in my mind, non bmw applications) synpower is an extreme value when changed regularly.

    some volvo guys made a chart of the various fluids and their dollar value per ounce per degree!

    http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm
    I always liked that Valvoline synthetic, great deal for low cost high performance brake fluid.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Maryland
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    35

    Default

    Dan,

    Where did you purchase that Motive power bleeder? The ones I've seen don't appear to have the right connector for the reservoir.

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Jan 2004
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    Default

    I bought mine from FCPGroton.com. They're more popular with the Volvo messageboard folk, but they carry a lot of common BMW, Volvo, and SAAB parts.

    Anyway, I got the package that has both the Euro connector and the American Universal connector (my friend paid for the whole package and I bled the brakes on his Ford Escape, then I got to keep the bleeder).

    The Euro cap connector screws securely onto my E46 330Ci, 525i E34, and 91 Volvo 240. Works out very nicely.

    It also uses common compressed air fittings, so if you wanted to use an air tank to simply put pressure on the system without pumping fluid, you could do that as well with just the cap.
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

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