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Thread: Busted a wire for the knock sensor while pulling intake

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Long Island, NY
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    352

    Default Busted a wire for the knock sensor while pulling intake

    I found a wire on my intake that shouldn't have been there. I traced it back to what looks like the driver side, rear knock sensor.

    It looks like I'm gonna have to replace at least one of these, should I do all of them now? or just the one.

    What sort of work is involved in replacing this? It looks like a big pipe runs right next to it.

    Son of a bitch!!
    '94 540I 6spd/205000 miles

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Albany, NY
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    Ok two things.

    1. When I took my intake manifold and heads off my 530i I busted one of the knock sensors where it connects to the block. Just do one of them, its not a part that is supposed to fail ever so getting all of them is a waste of money. Cheapest place I could find them was www.autohausaz.com and I think they were like $120.

    2. When I put my engine back together, I also had an extra wire with a connector one it. Apparently it is supposed to be extra if you car has ACS.


    Hope that helps
    Zac

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Norcross, GA
    Posts
    239

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    Sorry to hear this man. May be it was contributing to some of the problems and it had to be replaced anyway.

    I searched the Real OEM it is part 15 in the link.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...10&hg=11&fg=10

    Its $65.02 at the bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com. shop around

    How bad did you bust it? Picture?

    The pipe that runs next to it is coolant pipe. Other members might be able to tell you if it is possible to remove passenger side knock sensors with out removing the coolant pipe.

    Arun
    530i / Nikasil M60 3 Ltr Motor / ZF5HP18 (A5S 310Z) Tranny / Prod: March 95 / Fully stock / 95K miles

  4. #4
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    id nut up and do all of them if you plan to keep the car for two reasons, 1st it's a bitch job to go back and replace one after you put the intake back on, 2nd they gradually go deaf and get less sensitive and a new one may piss off the computer, if you can't figure out how to sneak it out from under the water pump pipe you need to pull the pump to get the pipe out of the way
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Long Island, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    id nut up and do all of them if you plan to keep the car for two reasons, 1st it's a bitch job to go back and replace one after you put the intake back on, 2nd they gradually go deaf and get less sensitive and a new one may piss off the computer, if you can't figure out how to sneak it out from under the water pump pipe you need to pull the pump to get the pipe out of the way
    Winfred that's not the answer I wanted to hear. I went and got one from the stealer for close to $100. I'd like to do all four, but I'm poor and it means my car would be down for another week until parts arrive-- given the holiday and all.

    So I tried to back the bolt of the broken one out, and its very close to coming out, but it starts pushing up on the pipe. Its can't be more than a couple millimeters away from coming out. Question is-- how much can that pipe withstand before I damage it to the point of needing replacement?


    Edit: I've never taking the water pump off, do I need to get the car up in the air to remove the water pump?
    I've got the hood off for the intake and my shitty jack and stands are 45mins away.
    Last edited by bbig119; 12-22-2006 at 11:17 PM.
    '94 540I 6spd/205000 miles

  6. #6
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    you can unbolt one on the other side to see how long the bolt is, if you just have a mm or two it can stand a little flexing but it's up to you decide what's too far, if you need to remove the pump and the pump is original id get a new one as that's a fair pain of a job on it's own, the pump can be done on the ground
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  7. #7
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    Apr 2006
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    It looks like the pump has to come out. There's maybe 3-4mm left within the block, but it going to have to push up a good bit on the pipe to get it out. Even if I'm able to do that without damaging the pipe, I'm not sure I can get the new one in. I'll still call the stealership and see if I can get an answer otherwise, but I'll have to go down there to get the gaskets for the pipe at the very least.

    Two questions on this:

    Do I need to drain the block to do this?
    How do I drain the block? -- especially without jacking up the car.
    Last edited by bbig119; 12-23-2006 at 09:25 AM.
    '94 540I 6spd/205000 miles

  8. #8
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    the block will drain when you pull the pump, it doesn't need to be drained before hand and will make about the same mess as it would if you tried to pull the drain plugs (which are a pain in the ass to get to)
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    the block will drain when you pull the pump, it doesn't need to be drained before hand and will make about the same mess as it would if you tried to pull the drain plugs (which are a pain in the ass to get to)

    Thanks winfred, I've got the radiator drained and the fan clutch removed. So hopefully now I don't run into any more snags or need any other parts from BMW or else this thing sits until Tuesday.
    Last edited by bbig119; 12-23-2006 at 02:15 PM.
    '94 540I 6spd/205000 miles

  10. #10
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    one of the lower bolts on the pump is a total PITA, can only turn it about 1/32 at a time unless you remove the harmonic balancer.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

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