Sachs throwout bearing is plastic?

[Jon K]

Weirdness - got my throwout bearing from Autohaus in a Sachs box etc., but the body is a hard composite type plastic while the surface is metal. Normal?

[BillionPa]

high strength composite plastic can be more durable than aluminum crush wise, as long as its covered in metal to be durable wear wise.

[Jon K]

Thats it - the metal is toward the surface... it inside and out at the end there, but the rest of the body toward the laptop is this composite. Its Sachs and OEM so I assume its normal.

[winfred]

they've been like that for years

[Booster]

The composite portion must ressonate less noise ?
..........V'

[Jon K]

they've been like that for years

Any probs or is it kosher? I'd hate to button it up and have the ol' "composite water pump" type issue.

[winfred]

they are less likely to gall up then the old metal ones on the sleeve it rides on, i usually lather up all of the mating surfaces with antiseize and let er rip

Any probs or is it kosher? I'd hate to button it up and have the ol' "composite water pump" type issue.

[Jon K]

they are less likely to gall up then the old metal ones on the sleeve it rides on, i usually lather up all of the mating surfaces with antiseize and let er rip

Thats another question I had - what all should I antisieze or lube when putting in my clutch? Someone said the trans input shaft but I am not very sure. What on the TO bearing do you lub, the metal face?

[winfred]

i lube the input shaft splines, pilot and the parts of the to bearing that touch the clutch fork and the center round part that slides on the tranny's snout, i don't worry about the part that hits the pressure plate

[Mr Project]

I usually put a tiny bit on the metal face, but I focus on the inside surface that slides back and forth on on the nose of the transmission. I also usually use high-temp wheel bearing grease...not sure if that's 'right' but it's worked well on the last 5 or 6 clutch jobs/engine swaps.