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Thread: throttle; no response sometimes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
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    834

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    so it's the brushes and the contact surface of the revolving rotor that fails.

    are the brushes available for replacement at any BMW spare parts store? I need to fit in the same size from somewhere else?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    9,249

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    Commutator, amature, brushes mainly inside.
    If the engine sucked oil, you also have to clean it inside.

    Note that some of the throttling valves have socalled tamper proof bolts. But these are also no problem to remove, just replace them with nice new ones.

    Your dealer will have no spare part available for this, because this is 'tamper proof' secured.
    I so far have never used a spare brush, just had to clean them.
    The DK's are made by Bosch, so you may visit a Bosch shop for the brushes.
    But I do not have a part number of that or a replacement.
    That is no big problem, just measure it and find a replacement with same size. If you cannot find one, buy a slightly bigger size and file it to match.
    Maybe Wuffer knows the part number of the Bosch brushes.

    Then you can measure it, and make a function test if you want.
    All nicely written down here
    http://www.e31faq.com/attachments/att34.pdf

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
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    WoW ... this PDF got it all ...

    I was wondering about the black rubber on the top of the DK motor, some cars had a hose connected to somewhere in the engine or a hose between the 2 DK motors, and most have it close by this rubber. I would love to know what is it for and why we see some difference between cars ( hose or plug )

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    9,249

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    That plug on top: that is for a disturbance air valve. That is for example in Germany necessary for passing the 2 years road test. The tester open this disturbance air valve and let's air inside to see how quick the system reacts and then checks the exhaust stuff. Here you can see it
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/133398
    And the lower small hose goes to the charcoal cannister and then to the tank back. There is also a valve in between to avoid dieseling.
    I replaced all these hoses completely, they were brittle like glass.

    Just found another nice thing on RF:
    quote

    And here is my DK test routine

    Message: Use an old discarded PC power supply for the 4+ volts max to drive the DK. Works nicely to see if there are any hiccups in the operation of the DK at low voltage as it will reveal poor brush contact. I can also switch the polarity of the 12v take off on the top of the picture to test the seat motors.
    http://members.roadfly.com/JNelson/DKTest1.JPG

    ------------------------
    another good hint by Jon:
    If you decide to clean your own DK motors keep in mind the source of the grease that contaminates the brushes. The throttle valves are assembled with a small amount of grease in the gearbox between the butterfly and the motor/wiper assembly. Although there is a small O-ring seal on the gearcase, grease still migrates up the helical gear and onto the brushes. So its not a bad idea to redistribute the grease in the gearbox and clean up the lower end of the armature shaft.

    Jon
    -------------------------
    and Mark:
    There is only really two wear items in the DK motor assembly - the feedback potentiometer and the brushes. The pot is a "wiper" design, and will eventually wear out, rendering the motor inoperative. The brushes wear down and coat the innards with carbon dust. The bearings are overbuilt, and the geartrain (on EML-II) is spring-loaded to eliminate lash due to geartrain wear. EML-III is a direct drive stepper motor (brushless, IIRC), which eliminates one more source of problems.

    Why didn't Bosch and Siemens go with an optical position encoder? Sheesh.

    Mark
    --------------------------

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
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    I have a variable power supply with V/A meter so I can handle this. but I was looking at the last 2 images with the German data sheet/ diagram and I couldn't see the current draw. this might give a good idea if the DK is functioning properly or not, when I apply the supply I will watch the Ammeter and see the current flow, if it's more than it's supposed to be then I will know that I still have a problem.

    I was wondering, how hard is it to upgrade the EML to EML III and put the stepper DK motors?! I always thought that the DKs are stepper motors until I saw the picture.

  6. #16
    Join Date
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    Japan
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    Just leave the system as it is, that is bullet proof. Just cleaning every 60 k or more is enough.
    Basically cleaning the amature, the brushes (dust from the brushes) and the grease, that is enough.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    If you need carbon brushes, go to your China Market in Dubai, they probably have it for cheap.
    I know a shop in Germany which is specialized on these units for starters, generators, blower motors etc.
    http://www.autokohlen.de/
    for Bosch generators
    http://www.technikline.com/pi-580964...m?categoryId=2
    starters
    http://www.technikline.com/pi1553376...?categoryId=10
    accessories
    http://www.technikline.com/pi-143873...?categoryId=17

    bearings for generators
    http://www.technikline.com/pi1161098...?categoryId=22
    and so on

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