Rigid fuel line replacement

[pfmc24]

Hi, I'm getting very frustrated with this...I have already wrecked a pre bent copper pipe for the vent hose.
There is a very small gap between the subframe and the body, it's only just big enough to get the line through. I don't want to damage the new line.
I have removed the rear wheel, but it is still very tight to feed thru via the weel arch.
Anyone got any good tips on replacing the rigid fuel lines please?

[yaofeng]

I recommend not even try to get the fuel line in, supply or return doesn't matter, in one piece. Make at least one or two connections in between. I think you can get it in in one piece only if you take the rear subframe out.

In my case I had the final drive removed (because I am doing the 6 speed conversion). But the hang up is on the driver side rear sub-frame. I bought 5/16" stainless steel tubing in 78" straight sections. I need three sections for the return and two for the supply.

But I am hardly in a position to give you any tips. I remove them only yesterday in drizzling rain. What a lousy weekend in New Jersey. I ordered a rigid 458R flaring tool to flare the stainless steel tubing. It should come in about a week.

[pfmc24]

Hi Yaofeng,
I was beginning to think about separate sections myself. What are you planning to connect them with? Can I use short sections of rubber hose and clamps?
I tried backing off the bush nut etc on the rear sub frame, and jacking the car hoping the stub axle weight would drop the frame slightly, allowing a bit more room, but there is no difference.

[yaofeng]

You can double flare copper lines very easily with a $15 flaring tool. If that's what you have you won't have problems installing it in sections and it won't compromise the strength. I have the regular double flare and bubble flare tools. But they won't work on the hard stainless steel tubing so I ordered one which does. It is seven times as expensive.

The standard SAE double flare connection works and is good for a couple thousand psi I think. it is overkill I know but I don't think I will be able to sleep at night connecting the hard line sections with a rubber hose.

[pfmc24]

Sorry, by rubber hose I meant the correct pressure rated fuel hose and screw on clamps like used to connect the rigid hose to the fuel rail.
Surely this is ok?

[yaofeng]

That's what I meant too. It may be okay. I'd rather not use it. IMO it defeats the purpose of replacing the fuel lines. The rusted fuel line you took out is probably more robust than new sections of hard lines connected by rubber hoses, fuel grade or not.

[pfmc24]

Yaofeng,
thanks for all the advice.
I will get some compression fittings and do it properly!
Public transport in the UK sucks, but I guess I'll be using it for a few days
Hope it stopped raining in New Jersey
Pete