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Thread: Pulled car in garage and radiator expired...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Missouri, USA
    Posts
    136

    Default Pulled car in garage and radiator expired...

    Talk about good luck!
    Pulled into the garage and PSSSHHHHTT!
    Glad that didn't happen out on the road!

    The upper radiator hose nipple on the radiator basically "disintegrated" (for a lack of better terms).
    It just gave way and cracked, allowing coolant onto the fan and begin slinging it all over.

    Time for a radiator...and upper/lower hoses....thermostat and gasket....
    Water pump looks/feels tight as well as fan clutch.

    1. Do I REALLY have to remove the fan and clutch to get radiator out?
    2. Couldn't I just release the shroud from the radiator and lay it back over the fan?
    3. Then slide the radiator out...and the new one in?


    That SOUNDS logical.

    Any input from previous experience is GREATLY appreciated.
    Last edited by MO525; 04-05-2004 at 09:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    197

    Default

    If you haven't done it yet, I would do a big time cooling system update:

    1) All hoses
    2) New radiator
    3) New water pump
    4) New t - stat and t - stat housing
    5) New fan clutch
    6) New fluids

    Then cross the cooling system off as something to worry about and sleep well at night. It's really not a tough job at all, though it can be messy (although it soudns like you already drained the coolant).
    dave b
    93 525i
    156k +

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Indeed, once one goes, they all follow suit. Ask me how I know! Just do them all every 75k mi. or so, and you'll be in good shape. Don't forget the heater hoses! Call BMA and they'll kit it all up for you. Patrick and Yves have saved my hide more than once!
    Robert Callaway
    Dallas, TX
    '94 530im 143k mi
    '94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.

    "If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fogtown
    Posts
    656

    Default

    No need to remove the fan for radiator removal. Your logic seems correct.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Missouri, USA
    Posts
    136

    Default The heater hose "nest" looks like a real project...

    Quote Originally Posted by Anton CH.
    No need to remove the fan for radiator removal. Your logic seems correct.

    There's quite a mess of small hoses on the M50, isn't there.
    Goodness.

    I'll be calling BMA today, folks.

    Thanks for all the input!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    that isn't a nest...its a cluster f#ck :-)
    George

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Get the 6mm Stahlwille hose clamp driver. It will save you lots of time, especially on the heater hoses!!!
    Robert Callaway
    Dallas, TX
    '94 530im 143k mi
    '94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.

    "If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    MASS
    Posts
    100

    Default Change it all while you've got the radiator out

    My water pump went on the MASS turnpike on a 95 degree day. Took 3 hours of stop and start to get home. Make sure you get the metal impeller pump. The pump is easy to change it out especially if you have the radiator and fan clutch removed.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    Strongly suggest you do the complete job too... Rad, hoses, pump, t-stat, t-stat housing, and all the clamps! I can't tell you how everything went one after another... rad, water pump, t-stat housing, heater hoses... augh... do it all for the peace of mind for the next 100,000 miles.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Everybody talk about t-stat housing. Think this ....

    apply to 525i, wich is this case, and not to 535i / M30. Isn't it?

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