fuel system cleaner
better spark plugs
clean distributor cap and rotor
Hi guys, I recently had the engine replaced in my car. Before, when I had the old engine,, I would be able to crank it just a couple of times and the car would fire up. But after the engine replacement, the car seems to have a hard time starting up when its cold. When the car is at normal operation temp, and I try to restart, it will crank right over. I usually wait a few seconds to prime to fuel but that still doesnt work. Most of the time, I have to pump the gas pedal to get it to start.
I want to get this fixed but I am unsure on where to look to find the solution. I was thinking about buying a check valve for the gas tank but that seems to only fix vapor lock and hot starting problems.
I need to figure out how to get my car started quickly when its cold? any tips?
Greg Mannino
Car Audio.Video.Security.Navigation Guru
Electrical/Mechanical Specialist
fuel system cleaner
better spark plugs
clean distributor cap and rotor
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
oh, i live in minnesota, and im using an acetone/lubricant mix, and it starts up no problem at well below freezing after sitting in the cold outside for 24 hours.
im also using 0W40 oil, so it moves a lot nicer when cold, and it has lots of moly which lowers engine friction.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
"Pumping" a fuel injection system doesn't actually pump anything, like it did with carburetors. Opening the throttle, however, will advise the ECU that you're off idle and want to deliver more fuel, which may help a cold start problem. It also can help with a hot start problem -- opening the throttle body delivers more air which can offset minor flooding, such as from leaky injectors.Originally Posted by gmannino
I'd suggest checking the engine coolant temp sensor (see your Bentley for details) which is mounted to the thermostat housing. If the ECU thinks it's hot all the time, it won't enrichen the mixture at start. Make sure the blue plug is inserted into the lower sensor on the housing, and the brown one in the upper sensor. The blue one is the important one, here. A shorted sensor or sensor lead will advise the ECU that the coolant is hot.
Last edited by DaveVoorhis; 08-10-2006 at 07:31 AM.
1997 535i V8
5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas
wounldnt the car's computer detect a bad sensor? and then throw a code or warning.
Greg Mannino
Car Audio.Video.Security.Navigation Guru
Electrical/Mechanical Specialist
Also the temp guage on the dash would not work. it would read hot all the time, mine does not. Isnt this correct.
Greg Mannino
Car Audio.Video.Security.Navigation Guru
Electrical/Mechanical Specialist
i believe there are multiple sensors, one for the dash, one for the ECU, one for the AC.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
That depends on the failure mode of the sensor. If the ECU detects that the sensor value is out of range (e.g., dead short or open) then it should throw a code 1223. It won't detect that the sensor is in range but no longer responding to the environment, as could occur with a bad sensor or partial short. And, the sensor is easy to check and your symptoms seem temperature-related, so it's worth a shot.Originally Posted by gmannino
Another possibility is a temperature-related problem with the fuel pump, or it's simply draining back over night.
The Air Flow Meter unit also contains an air temperature sensor. I do not know what effect its failure would cause.
I'm assuming, of course, that you've checked all the regular maintenance items whose failure could contribute to a poor start condition -- spark plugs, spark leads, distributor cap and rotor, vacuum hoses and intake boots for vacuum leaks, etc.
1997 535i V8
5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas
The gauge sender and ECM coolant sensor are independent. The dash indicator sensor is the one with the brown plug.Originally Posted by gmannino
1997 535i V8
5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas
So if the dash indicator sensor is the brown plug, then the Coolant temp sensor is the blue plug correct? is there any other temp sensors I should check?
I installed a new check valve near the gas tank but it still has a hard time starting up.
Greg Mannino
Car Audio.Video.Security.Navigation Guru
Electrical/Mechanical Specialist