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Thread: Low HP and Torque readings

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Johannesburg, South Africa
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    Default Low HP and Torque readings

    I dyno'd my 1995 525 end last year and it came up with the following numbers:

    132 HP
    143 N.m

    Are these numbers acceptable (yes, the car is 11 years old) or not? It runs smooth and there are no problems I'm aware of. Big question; where do I start to "fix" the old beast. What are the major things that cause such a drastic degredation in numbers?
    (I have bought an EAT chip but havent dyno'd yet, just want to know what else...)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default

    rebuild your engine head, change your pistonrings.
    do a engine flush, clean out the exhaust pipes. Replace all ignition parts. Do a engine flush and change oil and filter.
    Eurospec-12/1988-535iL-M30B35-5speed

  3. #3
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    T慈愛慈意愁慈
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    Default

    Plus a shogun reset after you do all that
    :: HIDCanada.com | Illuminating Your World


  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Qube
    Plus a shogun reset after you do all that
    Why do you call it a "shogun" reset?
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  5. #5
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    Because... it's a credit to Shogun! No way... you didn't know that?

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...t=shogun+reset

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...t=shogun+reset
    :: HIDCanada.com | Illuminating Your World


  6. #6
    Join Date
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    we all know that, Alex is on them meds again.
    [QUOTE=Qube]Because... it's a credit to Shogun! No way... you didn't know that?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  7. #7
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    if the engine has good compression and doesn't use more then a quart or so of oil between changes it's in fine shape, it just comes down to whats out of spec like a worn airflow meter or 02 sensor or old crappy injectors would be the most likely votes, other things like timing chain stretch and vacuum leaks chip away at power too, general rule of thumb is 15-20% of avalable power gets lost in the drive train through friction so that takes it into the 150-160 range from stock in perfect factory fresh condition, from there another 20 odd hp could be easly eaten up by any one or more of the things i listed and others i didn't, dynos can be way off too compared to other units of the same brand/model depending on how it's set up and correction factor. the good thing is now that you have a base line you can go back to that same dyno and with the same correction factor will be able to track improvements
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qube
    On 10-13-2005, shogun posted the following (with irrelevant parts cut out, but none added):

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun
    The reset is basically nothing special. Every shop makes it, we make it sometimes without knowing it by disconnecting the battery for car winter storage or a repairs on the car.
    All that is a reset.
    If you do not notice any change, then there was nothing wrong on the engine management.
    Do not expect to have suddenly 300 HP more or things like that
    It also will not cure mechanical problems on the car.
    It is just like 'cleaning' your PC and make all the programs to original state.
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  9. #9
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    Shhhhh! Don't discredit the shogun reset! It works a silent miracle... like the button on Lost (http://www.lostpedia.com/wiki/Main_Page)
    :: HIDCanada.com | Illuminating Your World


  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Thats like saying the white man invented smallpox when we came to american, when we were just carriers.
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

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