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Thread: Ball joint

  1. #1
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    Mar 2004
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    Default Ball joint

    Guys, I'm having a real hard time separating the ball joint studs from the steering knuckle. I'm in the process of replacing my T/A and C/A bushes. Could anyone tell me what's the best way of getting those bastards out?

  2. #2
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    Default

    they are self locking bolts, so they are on tight.

    worst case, remove the strut to get clearance so you can use an impact wrench on em.

    otherwise, try a breaker bar, and i think the lower part of the joint needs to be secured with a wrench so it doesnt spin freely.
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mamilapon
    Guys, I'm having a real hard time separating the ball joint studs from the steering knuckle. I'm in the process of replacing my T/A and C/A bushes. Could anyone tell me what's the best way of getting those bastards out?
    It's a very tight fit. You can rend on them for hours, break pullers, even put yourself in hospital with little drama.

    Whatever you want to do, but they won't want to come off. The good news is, one short sharp hit in the right place, in the right way does it like it was meant to come out instead of being welded in as they had been for hours beforehand.

    Bill R has a neat way of taking the strut bottom off arms included and sitting it on sockets of varying sizes so it sits straight- cos you need to be a good aim with your hammer on the control arm bolts.

    (search for it- the pics are great)

    You won't believe it till you look twice and see it off after a single hit with a 4lb hammer.

    It is never worth trying to pop 'em on the car, esp. if rusted/old....

    ps oh yes, don't forget to put lots of good penetrating oil in there the night before Nick
    Last edited by genphreak; 07-05-2006 at 08:58 AM.

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  4. #4
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    Default

    He is having issues with the joint coming out, not the nut.

    Anyway - go to Autozone, rent their "bushing press" tool (very big check to make sure its large) and Tie Rod puller tool.

    Than do this with them and airgun the bottom till it pops. Very easy.


  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    He is having issues with the joint coming out, not the nut.

    Anyway - go to Autozone, rent their "bushing press" tool (very big check to make sure its large) and Tie Rod puller tool.

    Than do this with them and airgun the bottom till it pops. Very easy.
    Looks easy jon. But does Mamilapon have an airgun, or neighbours?

    Join the Aussie
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    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  6. #6
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    Default Negative

    Quote Originally Posted by genphreak
    Looks easy jon. But does Mamilapon have an airgun, or neighbours?
    I do not have an air gun so I'll try to search Bill R's instructions on the exact spot to hit it. If it works we shall call it the G Spot!

  7. #7
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    Default Ta

    Quote Originally Posted by genphreak
    It's a very tight fit. You can rend on them for hours, break pullers, even put yourself in hospital with little drama.

    Whatever you want to do, but they won't want to come off. The good news is, one short sharp hit in the right place, in the right way does it like it was meant to come out instead of being welded in as they had been for hours beforehand.

    Bill R has a neat way of taking the strut bottom off arms included and sitting it on sockets of varying sizes so it sits straight- cos you need to be a good aim with your hammer on the control arm bolts.

    (search for it- the pics are great)

    You won't believe it till you look twice and see it off after a single hit with a 4lb hammer.

    It is never worth trying to pop 'em on the car, esp. if rusted/old....

    ps oh yes, don't forget to put lots of good penetrating oil in there the night before Nick
    Thanks mate I'll start doing a search.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    Default

    I bought something similar to this one on the bay, the one I got has an indent area on the arm to hold the arm from sliding off the stud, think the part number was 1917, similar to this 1915:



    worked unbelievably well...
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    4,150

    Default Its right here in the

    suspension archive, here




    Quote Originally Posted by mamilapon
    Thanks mate I'll start doing a search.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    NSW, Australia
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    Default Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    suspension archive, here
    Much appreciated guys.

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